by Ariane Ankarcrona
See an updated version & more fashion history here.
Christy Turlington, Chloe, 2006
1391: Queen Isabella of Bavaria gives a life-size doll to Queen Ann of Bohemia to show clothes on a human form. Later called �model dolls,� they became popular gifts among aristocracy and are used as tools for designers.
1852: Wife of dressmaker Charles Worth sported his designs amongst Paris aristocracy
Early 1900s: Lady Duff Gordon of Lucille's grooms young women. Models not received in polite society. Mannequins considered menials.
1924: New selection methods of models by nationality. Opening of first modeling agencies followed.
Top models for Vogue, Irving Penn, 1947
Late 1940s: Dior�s New Look. Top 12 models all resemble this aesthetic eg. sophisticated, mid-thirties.
1950s: Chanel�s Total Look. Chanel uses herself and family members as models or young aristocrats styled on the designer�s looks and attitudes.
The images featured are combined historic photos of the actual models accompanied by Natalia Vodianova portraying the models for Vogue, May 2009. Above Jean Patchett.
Late 1950s: ready-to-wear (pr�t-�-porter)industry begins. New class of clients means models no longer corresponded to high society looks. Mass produced clothes of pr�t-a-porter lines homogenizes ideal body type thanks to ready-made patterns.
Twiggy
1960s: Models/photographers are new elite of beautiful people. �natural� models ie. sexy, friendly and relaxed. Opposite to earlier �haughty� unrealness of couture models. Exotic models used.
1970s: Tougher looks due to economic recession. Model fees incorporated into advertising product they were endorsing.
Verushka
Penelope Tree
Early 1980s: demand for models with energy and �sense of fun� due to economic buoyancy. Increase in American consumers of European fashion brought Californian look ie. tanned, �natural� , healthy.
Mid/late 80s: Supermodels. Huge fees but safe-bet as represented global ideals of beauty. Surge in media attention of fashion industry.
Lauren Hutton
The supermodels posing for Peter Lindbergh 1990, and Kate Moss, 1993
1990s: Displacement of natural, healthy looks. Grunge style, waif, blas� attitude= Anti-fashion statement. Girls not women became ideal, modeling careers started much earlier.
Late 1990s: Trend of modeling with �real people� , those with interesting lives or �unusual � features.
2010: Revisionist aesthetics, return of the natural
Lara Stone above is larger than sample size and represents a possible shift in type. At a 2010 conference Anna Wintour said: "Each and every one of us needs to realise we are all responsible for models' health," Wintour said, via WWD - adding that designers will have to help end the "tyranny of [sample] clothes that just barely fit a 13-year-old on the edge of puberty.� Wintour went on to say that unhealthy body standards have meant that the past decade couldn't create supermodels, like the kind we saw in the '90s. And so: "Most [models] work only when they have the uberslim physique of the very young, stop getting jobs when they fill out and hence don�t last long enough to develop public personalities, like the '90s supermodels did. As a result, more magazine covers and lucrative beauty contracts have gone to singers and actresses," she observed.
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