tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-76677350469598901712024-03-14T06:53:10.275-07:00West Fashion StyleInternet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.comBlogger134125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-8960327071481817532011-04-08T03:50:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.739-07:00Film Costume: Cleo From 5 To 7 (1962)By Justina Lee<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ2fUo9xrQ_woajvXZ8y0AaLuO5OtTrBo29JPA5dNLGezsGncYn6Sjcl-Uj16C20_coG8APFF8vomEFKWSRoCNoLCpRrZz5zVNH6FnRnhDKg8f9frkuN4-0zk1iVwUS5IC2a3KFweC92E/s1600/cleo.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 198px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ2fUo9xrQ_woajvXZ8y0AaLuO5OtTrBo29JPA5dNLGezsGncYn6Sjcl-Uj16C20_coG8APFF8vomEFKWSRoCNoLCpRrZz5zVNH6FnRnhDKg8f9frkuN4-0zk1iVwUS5IC2a3KFweC92E/s320/cleo.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593164903153842386" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHgFHMGIEKPOGMEcu_Y2lNAu8MONRsUGwZ-3p3waLCPuWGFAmJiHqwjm2R_gZXqTUpHkzDmhmpbMbtLsbGqzruuKRG787-MkonjJVTsQQZlK_gYzP9r0nKCG-Nt2u1NlIsAqPMiCkMTlo/s1600/images.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 173px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHgFHMGIEKPOGMEcu_Y2lNAu8MONRsUGwZ-3p3waLCPuWGFAmJiHqwjm2R_gZXqTUpHkzDmhmpbMbtLsbGqzruuKRG787-MkonjJVTsQQZlK_gYzP9r0nKCG-Nt2u1NlIsAqPMiCkMTlo/s320/images.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593164411543957634" border="0" /></a><br /><div>"Cleo From 5 to 7" recounts the two hours before the French singer Cleo, believing that she has cancer, obtains her medical reports. The movie touches upon death, upon existentialism, upon despair, yet it also begins with a stunning costume: the attractive Cleo in a body-hugging, polka-dot dress. The silhouette is decidedly feminine: form-fitting above the waist, it accentuates Cleo's hourglass figure. The femininity of the costume echoes with the movie's questions of the perception of women. Throughout the movie, Cleo is eager to look her best, as seen from the ubiquity of mirrors. As she notes at the beginning, beauty defies death. The glamor of the costume thus empowers her as she confronts death.<br /><br />From the waist below, the dress has A-line shape. As she walks down the street after hearing the tarot card reader's ominous revelations, her skirt flutters in the wind, almost as if she is in flight. This image is reminiscent of Cleo's earlier remarks on beauty when she compares herself to a butterfly. Indeed, with the polka-dot pattern and the fluttering skirt, she resembles a beautiful butterfly flitting through the city.<br /><br />The polka dot pattern was also especially popular during the 50s and the 60s. The choice of this pattern can also be reflective of Cleo's desire to cling onto the present as she contemplates her imminent death.<br /><br />But ultimately, below this glamorous costume lies the question of the meaning of life. Do we live to impress others with our beauty? Does beauty mask our inner selves? The costume effectively communicates these questions.</div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-85063032235750900032011-04-07T13:24:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.745-07:00Film Costume: My Fair Lady (1964)By Sydney Kipen<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIh5Q9dSEMsESOC6xfISuKJ55CitF-0eNOJkY8_yQN3j-BtQTWHkAM_tjNJM7TA8QAZV9jYXC8priYZxzbyNcvGaQKMhNduYD_7ygCtd-uMHSz5CeDtcZeAKhXhyphenhyphenVELjhs18uO2Wvqks4/s1600/eliza+doolittle+ascot.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 242px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIh5Q9dSEMsESOC6xfISuKJ55CitF-0eNOJkY8_yQN3j-BtQTWHkAM_tjNJM7TA8QAZV9jYXC8priYZxzbyNcvGaQKMhNduYD_7ygCtd-uMHSz5CeDtcZeAKhXhyphenhyphenVELjhs18uO2Wvqks4/s320/eliza+doolittle+ascot.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592947084315100354" /></a><br /><br />The costume designed for Eliza Doolittle, designed by Cecil Beaton, is illustrative of high society fashion in the early 1900s of Edwardian England. Following her transformation from a Cockney, low-class member of society to a high-end member of the "leisure class," Eliza becomes the epitome of high fashion. Her dress, when she attended the famous Ascot Racecourse (horse races), embodies the qualities of upper-class society with long and elegant lines and a slight release of the corset and bodice. The lace, large broad hat, sash and belt to accent the small waist, high boned collar, and brushing of the floor of the dress all demonstrate early 20th century European fashion tendencies. Eliza's dress effectively communicates the transformation of her character to member of respected, high society and her role as a woman of status. The dress worn at the Ascot Racecourse demonstrates a sense of power dress and how transformation of one's clothing, and speech when she opens her mouth, can change others' perceptions and interpretations.Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-7552212407532375352011-04-06T14:40:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.750-07:00Film Costume: Australia (2008)By Valentina Franco<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNroqUpR68PEAE__h0Cmn_LTnN0GgGjbKzbdHjHnRuamJ8qL6todsTgtqHpnnN-VudaDrCMsq8dAkbqR0iUu9K37vFsCVcdyEvhSleiRvLsdb3MI1AHqek0uRyAGBG7Mlv7GKZAWjFrA4/s1600/Picture+1.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNroqUpR68PEAE__h0Cmn_LTnN0GgGjbKzbdHjHnRuamJ8qL6todsTgtqHpnnN-VudaDrCMsq8dAkbqR0iUu9K37vFsCVcdyEvhSleiRvLsdb3MI1AHqek0uRyAGBG7Mlv7GKZAWjFrA4/s320/Picture+1.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592593884026420114" /></a><br />The costume for Lady Sarah Ashley, was designed by Academy Award winning costume designer Catherine Martin. The movie is set between the late 1930�s and early 1940�s, and Lady Sarah Ashley, who is a very proper English woman, is perfectly and exquisitely dressed throughout the movie regardless of the places she has to go. When she goes to Australia to make her husband sell his cattle station, she continues to wear her high-end clothes even in an environment that is a lot more primitive and that doesn�t have the same social atmosphere that she is used to. Her way of dressing , which is so perfectly planned and perfect in every detail, undoubtedly gives her status and a power that is aligned to her being the owner of the cattle station in Australia. She is extremely elegant and feminine in her way of dressing but she also utilizes some of the masculine elements such as blazers, ties and hats throughout her stay in Australia perhaps to reaffirm her position in a society that as a woman didn�t accept or respect her so much.<p></p> <!--EndFragment-->Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-31146616535958798222011-04-06T10:39:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.760-07:00Film Costume: The Proposal (2009)<div>by: Christine Lee</div><div><br /></div><a href="http://www.topnews.in/files/images/Sandra-Bullock10.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 422px; height: 623px;" src="http://www.topnews.in/files/images/Sandra-Bullock10.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">(<a href="http://www.topnews.in/files/images/Sandra-Bullock10.jpg">via</a>)</div><div><br /></div>Sandra Bullock's character, Margaret Tate, is extremely strong-willed and powerful in the position as editor-in-chief. Consequently, her wardrobe matches this position. Cate Thomas, the costume designer, dressed Bullock in a power suit but with a twist. Instead of pairing the suit jacket with pants, she paired it with a form fitting skirt that is still conservative and fits within the business sphere. So while the suit still aligns itself with power and respect, it enters the terrain of feminine identity with the skirt. The suit was worn, usually by men, as a symbolic representation of power. That she is a woman wearing a customized suit for women, is extremely powerful. Although, it is quite common to see women in the modern era wearing suits since gender equality is prevalent an d accepted. This costume also helps to emphasize the characteristics that she possesses. She is uptight, contained, and controlled, but for reasons that are disclosed throughout the movie. Conclusively, this costume represents power but also oppression. And we see Margaret Tate being free from this "oppression" at the end of the movie when she decides to forgo the whole suit and instead dons just the skirt part.<div><br /></div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-74040641468933832072011-04-06T09:09:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.766-07:00Film Costume: Catch Me If You Can (2002)By Elleree Erdos<div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhotb875-e60jg8RIsqLIjhlXm4DUiu91u_a9dISN058K9WF8paGPmEQor64DwSJ_Us5NVFFv8U8BOaFhNKD6SCGIbupJbAKBIkbzJxeZ-5Vj3w8wKM43302O63i3vrJaGUQiiZkj0k3Hk/s1600/abagnalepilot.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 315px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhotb875-e60jg8RIsqLIjhlXm4DUiu91u_a9dISN058K9WF8paGPmEQor64DwSJ_Us5NVFFv8U8BOaFhNKD6SCGIbupJbAKBIkbzJxeZ-5Vj3w8wKM43302O63i3vrJaGUQiiZkj0k3Hk/s320/abagnalepilot.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592504033672125538" /></a> </div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span">This costume for Frank Abagnale, designed by Mary Zophres, is characteristic of 1960s pilot uniforms. Abagnale is a conman, characterized by his skill for deception�thus, his specific looks range from pilot, to doctor, to ordinary working-class man. Zophres captures the essence of each persona that Abagnale takes on through visual externalization. Abagnale�s clothing before he begins is life of deception is more lackluster, dull, and colorless; as he gets deeper into his false world of impersonation, his costumes become more extravagant and vibrant. This pilot's costume, in particular, gives Abagnale the power of social status, (which in turn offers perks such as attracting women, as illustrated in the image). The costume illustrates the power of the uniform<span style="font-style: normal; "> to deceive by exuding a strong visual impression or fa�ade of status, as well as its ability to empower the wearer by building an image that instills confidence. When Abagnale wears a uniform that </span></span>reinforces a persona with its established associations, he grows increasingly self-assured in his ability to deceive. Whether or not this power is legitimate, it is, at its core, an appearance of power that creates a self-fulfilling fantasy for the wearer.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-style: normal; "><br /></span></span></p> <!--EndFragment--></div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-27385195036584231492011-04-05T11:32:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.770-07:00Film Costume: Marie Antoinette (2006)<div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQmnapgVM98Eo-Zu1l9xqI9QrbZD6u2-qZGAq_4JgpYBWq65q_-Ptyxr8GxiyF6iQf1d6Q-T9hyphenhyphen4nndC7W6EKE2PLzztZb22S1dhbzdeqiybMhfkxSbjFsKBTZ6BBRrUQBeIxFeB-SJD0/s1600/Screen+shot+2011-04-04+at+1.54.03+AM.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 257px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQmnapgVM98Eo-Zu1l9xqI9QrbZD6u2-qZGAq_4JgpYBWq65q_-Ptyxr8GxiyF6iQf1d6Q-T9hyphenhyphen4nndC7W6EKE2PLzztZb22S1dhbzdeqiybMhfkxSbjFsKBTZ6BBRrUQBeIxFeB-SJD0/s400/Screen+shot+2011-04-04+at+1.54.03+AM.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591516599721207362" /></a><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></u></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQmnapgVM98Eo-Zu1l9xqI9QrbZD6u2-qZGAq_4JgpYBWq65q_-Ptyxr8GxiyF6iQf1d6Q-T9hyphenhyphen4nndC7W6EKE2PLzztZb22S1dhbzdeqiybMhfkxSbjFsKBTZ6BBRrUQBeIxFeB-SJD0/s1600/Screen+shot+2011-04-04+at+1.54.03+AM.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a></span></span><div><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">T</span></span></span><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">he costume for Marie Antoinette, designed by </span></span></span><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Milena</span></span></span><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></span><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Canonera</span></span></span><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">, follows the styles of 18</span></span></span><span style=" vertical-align: super; color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">th</span></span></span><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> century aristocracy, such as a fitted corseted bodice and full skirt. The poof is also important to the era. Here the specific look has light feminine colors, associating the character with womanly innocence. The costume represents the privileges of aristocratic power, using fashion as a form of conspicuous consumption to display wealth.</span></span></span></div></div><div><span style=" ;color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-72382265137209786442011-04-05T11:31:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.774-07:00Film Costume: The Royal Tenebaums (2001)<div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyi7ztXsqq21e_PpQVQGqzkjG_VaOWu5S7jCa9GS-ET25K7otI0os_GZH8QiOzXSZziz4ov_jUUtVTq5L1cVlnwRdU_vykD8FNx164CiwPK92QqRytn5_CnGeeWGu3Ob7kvBbAGKld6WI/s1600/Screen+shot+2011-04-04+at+1.54.13+AM.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyi7ztXsqq21e_PpQVQGqzkjG_VaOWu5S7jCa9GS-ET25K7otI0os_GZH8QiOzXSZziz4ov_jUUtVTq5L1cVlnwRdU_vykD8FNx164CiwPK92QqRytn5_CnGeeWGu3Ob7kvBbAGKld6WI/s400/Screen+shot+2011-04-04+at+1.54.13+AM.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591517448772809634" /></a><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><!--StartFragment--> <p style="margin-top:0pt;margin-bottom:0pt;margin-left:0in;text-align:left; direction:ltr;unicode-bidi:embed;mso-line-break-override:none;word-break:normal; punctuation-wrap:hanging"><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-top:0pt;margin-bottom:0pt;margin-left:0in;text-align:left; direction:ltr;unicode-bidi:embed;mso-line-break-override:none;word-break:normal; punctuation-wrap:hanging"><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">T</span></span></span><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">he costume for Richie </span></span></span><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Tenenbaum</span></span></span><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">, designed by Karen Patch, follows the styles of the turn of the 20th century when the male suit became c</span></span></span><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">asualized</span></span></span><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> by the dot com revolution. The headband and wrist bands reference more casual sports wear and vintage elements. The sunglasses add mystery to the character. The costume represents the power of the consumer to mix styles in a moment of democratization of fashion.</span></span></span></p><p style="margin-top:0pt;margin-bottom:0pt;margin-left:0in;text-align:left; direction:ltr;unicode-bidi:embed;mso-line-break-override:none;word-break:normal; punctuation-wrap:hanging"><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></p> <!--EndFragment--> </div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-33347926552943538232011-04-05T11:25:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.778-07:00Tattoos in Western Culture<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">by Sofya Gladysheva<br /><br />Throughout history, tattoos in the West have by and large been reserved for specific subcultures that assert group identity through tattooing. However, tattoos have undergone a paradigm shift in the past 50 years as they began to find their place in the mainstream. Since then, this specific body art has evolved from its power to express group identity to its most contemporary power in the 21st century, the ability to express self identity and individuality.<br /><br />When Captain Cook made his ground breaking landfall in the Pacific in 1769, he was the first to have real contact with the painted people the Pacific. Afterwards, it was �rediscovered� by Western subcultures The earliest subculture to claim tattooing was the sailors. Their use of tattooing was for group identification. The seafarers were united by inscription as a whole, separating them from the mainstream culture, but at the same time they differentiated amongst themselves by the types of tattoos they got. For example, those born before the revolution inscribed things like �independence� and �liberty� or a cluster of stars, while the younger boys focused more on tattooing their initials, maritime symbols, and less specific patriotic symbols<br /><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhREPPqfQYnj76tcr3Zz_mUgayjiU8Y7zq9DJC71dKPdI3RqQwf5nRLupacgzSyidBOLEYdaj9HkrT853aOfMpGzx7kmI3fzoEpQdbJCDxDDvE8hxJuW2XmvXqasg_6vKQaTssvy-fb4Vo/s1600/liberty.gif" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 306px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhREPPqfQYnj76tcr3Zz_mUgayjiU8Y7zq9DJC71dKPdI3RqQwf5nRLupacgzSyidBOLEYdaj9HkrT853aOfMpGzx7kmI3fzoEpQdbJCDxDDvE8hxJuW2XmvXqasg_6vKQaTssvy-fb4Vo/s320/liberty.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592168055326015938" border="0" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br />However, the most poignant use of tattoos in the last century is the Holocaust tattoos. In that context, tattoos were forced onto others as a mark of alleged inferiority.It is not until the 1960�s, when tattoo artists began to study fine-art training by looking at Polynesian and Japanese body art that tattoos began to be considered fashionable or artistic. Since then, tattoos have become swallowed up by fashion.<br /><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFIUX1E8tIaxyXRH9MXfj9522f58AimnSjpD8p1KOvnUpKDcMMgTUR-8fPEbEseXpIC9Qv4Jo2BjfWfHQIMD9Nvy61ahyphenhyphenGzdzl7FjE8GUXpi-OvEZFBWf7iGwGxrmJUuroP2m0saii0Ss/s1600/Kat-Von-D.gif" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFIUX1E8tIaxyXRH9MXfj9522f58AimnSjpD8p1KOvnUpKDcMMgTUR-8fPEbEseXpIC9Qv4Jo2BjfWfHQIMD9Nvy61ahyphenhyphenGzdzl7FjE8GUXpi-OvEZFBWf7iGwGxrmJUuroP2m0saii0Ss/s320/Kat-Von-D.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592168490118758610" border="0" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Kat Von D--powerful tattoo artist and female media figure<br /></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT6ovqsZ9DrcomTLiDpf-ZcAwZJIo-DvjaccQV5gU5OQeHur7ZNod7vGtV7eSHAToj_g_PjHIZpJGLJe8p73LSykfNjBEceYq62OoMxJ8QzxNfsobQi0xOHMEzhy29UI7DPXNVJ7TlV1I/s1600/rick-genest.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT6ovqsZ9DrcomTLiDpf-ZcAwZJIo-DvjaccQV5gU5OQeHur7ZNod7vGtV7eSHAToj_g_PjHIZpJGLJe8p73LSykfNjBEceYq62OoMxJ8QzxNfsobQi0xOHMEzhy29UI7DPXNVJ7TlV1I/s320/rick-genest.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592168771412459954" border="0" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Rick Genest "Zombie Boy" in Mugler campaign and Lady Gaga's video.<br /></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBjirSHnzk-jewd8mSX0OReZAGK-2dQyIhn6t1QrMF28yiu9KCWyge9qE9VKBD0IKpHP9A15xxXfZ7W0WAqE_VCNfUlVW5aejs2cZCZwxhfgMrEVd7EHpptmFcdHrlssVTErsJ7-4utiQ/s1600/gualtier.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBjirSHnzk-jewd8mSX0OReZAGK-2dQyIhn6t1QrMF28yiu9KCWyge9qE9VKBD0IKpHP9A15xxXfZ7W0WAqE_VCNfUlVW5aejs2cZCZwxhfgMrEVd7EHpptmFcdHrlssVTErsJ7-4utiQ/s320/gualtier.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592168979413947858" border="0" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Gaultier used temporary facial tattoos in his show.<br /></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br />If this is the case, have tattoos become part of what sociologist and philosopher Jean Baudrillard called the �carnival of signs,� a postmodern world filled with floating and misunderstood signs where everything is reduced to mere participation in the fashion system? Even if we keep tattoos linked with their devious roots and define them as an anti-fashion, in post-modern thought the resistance to fashion is still seen as a participation in the greater system because fashion is self referential.<br /><br />An important qualification is that while fashion maybe self-referential, tattoos are not merely observed in the realm of fashion, making them referential in other, more sober contexts, specifically �the self.� Since they are permanent markings on the skin, and not frivolous fabrics that have a fast turn-over rate, tattoos end up defining a person for a lifetime, not an afternoon or a season. In that sense they transcend fashion, and become part of a larger discussion of the expression of self and the inescapable urge to communicate through visual, and non-verbal ways.<br />There is clearly a deeper connection to getting a tattoo than simply following or negating fashion because if tattoos were only fashion accessories then only the end result would matter, and temporary tattoos would suffice.<br /><br />At the same time the meaning depends on the receiver. Certain tattoos can hold a deeper meaning to those who associate with it. Nevertheless, when it comes down to it, tattoos have the most meaning to the individual. They commemorate a significant moment, a loved one, or an idea and become �body projects�. We can choose to mark up our skin in whichever way we want, and in that way it can mean whatever we want and remain indexical of so much more than a simple participation in the fashion system. In fashion that is not the case because we can only wear what is offered to us. Even those opposing fashion, by tearing their jeans for example, are using the fashion codes that already exist.<br /><br />The tattoo gives power back to the individual by allowing him to express identity through a fashion item that is both aesthetically pleasing AND meaningful, which in our arguably postmodern world is a rarity�if not inconceivability.</span></span><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input id="jsProxy" type="hidden" onclick="jsCall();"><div id="refHTML"></div><div><br /></div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-52808933101723205982011-04-05T10:30:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.783-07:00Democratization of Fashion<div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOVrp1smTHfT-LzLTLxv4fzcjOxeTTOrovL-EEpKoQhLqej2C8LddDP86vqZXkBGiy8BGZV8f7slrYfpcyH_9a4S-bQVNWN_FNMR7cW4QGIKxv-I7H-Xjsk22lj7tenwfkgUsjUywMQE/s1600/1.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOVrp1smTHfT-LzLTLxv4fzcjOxeTTOrovL-EEpKoQhLqej2C8LddDP86vqZXkBGiy8BGZV8f7slrYfpcyH_9a4S-bQVNWN_FNMR7cW4QGIKxv-I7H-Xjsk22lj7tenwfkgUsjUywMQE/s400/1.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591522684546667538" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 269px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Fashion has been associated with privilege and exclusive designs. With mass production, we can generally suggest that clothing is more available than ever, but abundance has not eliminated social differences. The images above and below were created for the Salvation Army in 2007 and intended to shock. The ads read </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">�You wouldn�t be seen dead in them but for a homeless person they could mean the difference between life and death. Please donate your unwanted clothes to the homeless this winter.�</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcx712NFWipjU8KdVSlzdL7xlcX9Voje1qd0eqtvJtJm5hdwPteOlDmYPEayMegLB3isQrcYeHdKRW54sQF0tJK0HJpoK0KbYs0qWlAeU_gFJkVYlwXKmmroY4DVKgNeZsPVTnFyKYAH8/s1600/2.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcx712NFWipjU8KdVSlzdL7xlcX9Voje1qd0eqtvJtJm5hdwPteOlDmYPEayMegLB3isQrcYeHdKRW54sQF0tJK0HJpoK0KbYs0qWlAeU_gFJkVYlwXKmmroY4DVKgNeZsPVTnFyKYAH8/s400/2.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591522669416864546" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 271px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Society has shifted from the era of modern production, the industrial revolution through the 60s, to postmodern excess, the 70s through the present. While social differences still exist, we now have over production of goods which combined with other factors, encourages an eventual democratization of fashion.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><b>The democratization of fashion:</b> </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">-the increase in amount and accessibility for fashion goods globally</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">-the decrease in exclusive specialty clothing (haute couture) with an increase of ready-to-wear</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">-the decrease of fashion authorities and increase of media and many voices</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">-a greater mixing of class, gender and cultural codes, with a decrease in barriers like formal & casual.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB1WGUXzzJsiL_fCjQNu6-l39RJGpnqjchKfamtdtx8AlJqEOsq2TMX9Eg6AagczoFCzsD4_sB4Dph51XwyPxYV5vVTWIh2IeWFg40cRpVtcNWEGX32JX6KmdIGCIdcrjkoeYEPdQIBe4/s1600/3.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB1WGUXzzJsiL_fCjQNu6-l39RJGpnqjchKfamtdtx8AlJqEOsq2TMX9Eg6AagczoFCzsD4_sB4Dph51XwyPxYV5vVTWIh2IeWFg40cRpVtcNWEGX32JX6KmdIGCIdcrjkoeYEPdQIBe4/s400/3.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591522657375896418" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 268px; " /></a><div style="text-align: center; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Pistoletto, Venus of Clothes, 1967</span></span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The democratization is part of what Fran�ois </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Lyotard called <b>The Postmodern Condition</b> in 1979. He saw a social decline of metanarratives or absolute right and wrong authorities. The consequence is abundant opinions but a <b>postmodern crisis of meaning</b> in which all meaning becomes unstable and people no longer know what is best.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCmDLGw1WrdW_78PsvwhE3AXicQXFQQ-jIDhqdPBqfPvIcsDSXGrPBuIbF4fHa1nOqPo2mI7v7CsE50nnnUDx3e62rAhYHNx2duUQcQh7qL2olX0jkeFVcPhRxaG8n7RNvYGeAYBM_WVI/s1600/4.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCmDLGw1WrdW_78PsvwhE3AXicQXFQQ-jIDhqdPBqfPvIcsDSXGrPBuIbF4fHa1nOqPo2mI7v7CsE50nnnUDx3e62rAhYHNx2duUQcQh7qL2olX0jkeFVcPhRxaG8n7RNvYGeAYBM_WVI/s400/4.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591522654346526722" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 199px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Postmodernity accepts multiple opinions and emphasizes identity politics. <b>This reduces the power of one group or hegemony.</b> However in fashion the diversity of points of view results in an <b>ambiguity of signs</b> in which something like the tux or suit is no longer tied to one gender, class, form or environment, meaning that it has become highly subjective what to wear in different circumstances.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc9DeDzyIyR1J-S0p9k2QaEuY3sHJUby3B62yfiHp2YzxnzirG1wwS8zLPYcKkkmEuxCwqVq4UnbrfrKoVLq4FQkHqZeqG3ll8hFqtRwZE_4fNtptyxtAID1u9z8U6wOpnJ6tQcWl-o7A/s1600/5.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc9DeDzyIyR1J-S0p9k2QaEuY3sHJUby3B62yfiHp2YzxnzirG1wwS8zLPYcKkkmEuxCwqVq4UnbrfrKoVLq4FQkHqZeqG3ll8hFqtRwZE_4fNtptyxtAID1u9z8U6wOpnJ6tQcWl-o7A/s400/5.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591522651568523666" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 244px; " /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGayvo-WBsFrveRSK7gsfQrtENR4FujSVrAZ0vhWWqG5AmCOLKanQT7chMupYgTWU_Npvbk_1oS5wiTbkACVqhfO1-uQ1ddPRafRfYEbdUqNitJ5HRJypvUUlR96_gNRsFaNwzTliOGgo/s1600/6.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><br /></span></span></span><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGayvo-WBsFrveRSK7gsfQrtENR4FujSVrAZ0vhWWqG5AmCOLKanQT7chMupYgTWU_Npvbk_1oS5wiTbkACVqhfO1-uQ1ddPRafRfYEbdUqNitJ5HRJypvUUlR96_gNRsFaNwzTliOGgo/s400/6.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591521785605844130" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 360px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The more democratic postmodern moment causes people look to <b>media for the answers and direction of what is right or wrong</b>. Above left Vogue states it can tell you the answer of "what to wear?" Media authorizes and legitimizes fashion forms and specific designers. Below people make sense of brands through their associations with media personalities.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Jd1IdWcpyjvtM9rl8q1jhC0EOjkqqMTNrk9S6VYr-8wYdBGTkU9_HGhxCyY81JrQyGy7fhMDzxdw1mXXKHiV5UMJw_q7vv4SoxKdwBkPm-QVdyDiac_mVsFbM395zYCsvcu-wi46b8w/s1600/7.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Jd1IdWcpyjvtM9rl8q1jhC0EOjkqqMTNrk9S6VYr-8wYdBGTkU9_HGhxCyY81JrQyGy7fhMDzxdw1mXXKHiV5UMJw_q7vv4SoxKdwBkPm-QVdyDiac_mVsFbM395zYCsvcu-wi46b8w/s400/7.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591521782785664482" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 290px; " /></a></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_rOyDcKOw_djCJy2rXhw8Rh4i-YYGZBOAW7CzcVUA3ZD8AtALzAa_rLEPpMwyzo54EwnZuBCM34LfvX6xin0WKOb_NPvpe7RY9jxtqLk35BaInldAcu4oY5ZqM_4r_aPU09Jz78GGjLs/s1600/8.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_rOyDcKOw_djCJy2rXhw8Rh4i-YYGZBOAW7CzcVUA3ZD8AtALzAa_rLEPpMwyzo54EwnZuBCM34LfvX6xin0WKOb_NPvpe7RY9jxtqLk35BaInldAcu4oY5ZqM_4r_aPU09Jz78GGjLs/s400/8.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591521773194748194" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 156px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above reality television fashion, is it a true democratic forum for talent? What about the open forum of blogging? Below there is an overall increase of teen power with social media and their engagement in contemporary style expression.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhERdQdNQVzjrsbjaGgJCC30xQ1qaNAAHzlJFO2Yr7ZLBY275N3VpV2wFwgiZ3Akk1DizO-pV0MAstiJvOBzUvbtUrQhAdebGnfNePRgB2X4HFdL9W25BqlTVYmff0a4YSXZi1GAYUFPqg/s1600/8.5.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhERdQdNQVzjrsbjaGgJCC30xQ1qaNAAHzlJFO2Yr7ZLBY275N3VpV2wFwgiZ3Akk1DizO-pV0MAstiJvOBzUvbtUrQhAdebGnfNePRgB2X4HFdL9W25BqlTVYmff0a4YSXZi1GAYUFPqg/s400/8.5.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591521765056313074" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px; " /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;">Fashion and media come together in <b>intertextuality</b>. Simply, a fashion sign makes sense only if you also know the other sign through a fluency of media.</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><br /></span></span></span><div style="text-align: center; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Georgia, serif;font-size:130%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:16px;"><div style="text-align: left; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" color: rgb(0, 0, 238); font-family:Georgia, serif;font-size:16px;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJZAnQ7Em4u9GkXSoNmxs6S9MSq1evGuPNzS82tzMM5NKoj1or3P1jWXlOgf-tvjpG8i9ojXTy40wRDwrKKdeMPKfmT7Ah5_o1QMirQ9TKFuqiXakP4lbvO8VasoPVZuKWzBLictQk0dc/s400/Screen+shot+2011-04-04+at+3.44.15+AM.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591538491872077970" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 264px; " /></span></span></span></div></span></span></u></span></span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_8krJ4aOKzfd9z-h4vBTe7T2OafheaoTO49udT725MW-rStg4CIzXUclrwA_AhjYNYBn1BSfo0-SFjCG_XQp1GIg-_EQWt-KosHUzhVv7iNPogIbJfvpNbCN_sG-dToznkmEvToqzGQw/s1600/12.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_8krJ4aOKzfd9z-h4vBTe7T2OafheaoTO49udT725MW-rStg4CIzXUclrwA_AhjYNYBn1BSfo0-SFjCG_XQp1GIg-_EQWt-KosHUzhVv7iNPogIbJfvpNbCN_sG-dToznkmEvToqzGQw/s400/12.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591520625427030690" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 159px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Looking to the street has increased with more democratization. Above left celebrity street photographer Ron Galella and right Bill Cunningham. Below street style magazine i-D by Terry Jones.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR5B-wCvLK5HPmCt8HG9TZoqTFvCeE1aHAP7wimKl9cow1uOWxyhqpH90BfIIBwnvP0SV5TUm9EIlp8W3rLcPRcRFsB5V781BZwncGnyKAKHNT9jX2JWEY6CaksYmWcoNLF_1lBnGluE8/s1600/13.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR5B-wCvLK5HPmCt8HG9TZoqTFvCeE1aHAP7wimKl9cow1uOWxyhqpH90BfIIBwnvP0SV5TUm9EIlp8W3rLcPRcRFsB5V781BZwncGnyKAKHNT9jX2JWEY6CaksYmWcoNLF_1lBnGluE8/s400/13.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591520624303429474" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 288px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLLuE92Rou6bquXFy3V2qiqTUjLSyujutUcMnCX4m6-PSCvyE3_Rs6Tz4Xtf3tT3RQG4LT_Haht7Xnlt6_lxeqvabU8kgish_36D2Ip0P5tY2a4LxlmwwC-0JHDC4hmosmjhDw6RuWe_Y/s1600/14.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLLuE92Rou6bquXFy3V2qiqTUjLSyujutUcMnCX4m6-PSCvyE3_Rs6Tz4Xtf3tT3RQG4LT_Haht7Xnlt6_lxeqvabU8kgish_36D2Ip0P5tY2a4LxlmwwC-0JHDC4hmosmjhDw6RuWe_Y/s400/14.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591520614402707426" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 310px; " /></a><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above Japanese street style for Fruits and below contemporary celebrity street style with Blake Lively. There is a larger question of the "<b>myth of street style</b>," if what gets documented is the exception, fashionistas, celebrities etc, and not the real street.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifsXWLAtEzzNmbKBihztrE9fbgA9MHbzCYiEFndnuVSgLpabpbsb08cWLV_HfzpfmHiaSpxvshixdrjX76zWuG0ROjnMp62gqhmR9Tgo5poLdZ8yPQA3X65HCt3IwzXaI-1UshUU-TpBU/s1600/15.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifsXWLAtEzzNmbKBihztrE9fbgA9MHbzCYiEFndnuVSgLpabpbsb08cWLV_HfzpfmHiaSpxvshixdrjX76zWuG0ROjnMp62gqhmR9Tgo5poLdZ8yPQA3X65HCt3IwzXaI-1UshUU-TpBU/s400/15.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591520245978688530" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAxtd7heVuCnljeHCXZvesoy24CFc8XFfXgV9zVV2L2W88gWNWOvPv9WmaTLD_8I64sv1ZkO2VRbwj216KM0S7e1QwRx6_t_AqUV53l5yTacvre0v-yfVzhE0TW1_ZN0UoE2MvDQamjm0/s1600/16.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAxtd7heVuCnljeHCXZvesoy24CFc8XFfXgV9zVV2L2W88gWNWOvPv9WmaTLD_8I64sv1ZkO2VRbwj216KM0S7e1QwRx6_t_AqUV53l5yTacvre0v-yfVzhE0TW1_ZN0UoE2MvDQamjm0/s400/16.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591520241145761858" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 336px; height: 400px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Author Sophie Woodward found that <b>most people think they are the exception</b> and defend their unique style but on close examination most people are simply mixing mass brands with occasional vintage or unique items. Below street style has influenced professional fashion photography, left for Harper's Bazaar April 2011 and right for Reserved.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-GWHeeCw_3PWHwgTOWvy5y6zSXS4zeHGrAQvOHzGK2tAUz8630dOCREthKPuABeRJylCTa1qLQOobcc_Vmp95FDmtu7704qDsHSofTbwCC5pvNX-S-fIVC9W8XVuUE2njSd9sGZO7Dgk/s1600/17.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-GWHeeCw_3PWHwgTOWvy5y6zSXS4zeHGrAQvOHzGK2tAUz8630dOCREthKPuABeRJylCTa1qLQOobcc_Vmp95FDmtu7704qDsHSofTbwCC5pvNX-S-fIVC9W8XVuUE2njSd9sGZO7Dgk/s400/17.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591520235233097810" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 214px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ULCiGC6wS55NaRHWrSWJyBq5mNbd5NQ9XmhMIfQuuzETOsjs7ly6lEP1G61sK0-Fo57YMjSUUKt2rdLk6ikH2DHm6Xel-WgxVditUKUEOBf7LW3VkSrsebWMd_-efNsQkGjKyw8cE8s/s1600/18.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ULCiGC6wS55NaRHWrSWJyBq5mNbd5NQ9XmhMIfQuuzETOsjs7ly6lEP1G61sK0-Fo57YMjSUUKt2rdLk6ikH2DHm6Xel-WgxVditUKUEOBf7LW3VkSrsebWMd_-efNsQkGjKyw8cE8s/s400/18.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591520226331684114" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 288px; height: 400px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above the Cole Haan Spring 2010 campaign featured <b>real women shot on the street in their shoes</b>. Below the man behind the curtain in The Wizard of Oz and Yves Saint Laurent in 1995. There is a larger question if part of the democratization of fashion is simply its unveiling. The forces that held the power over fashion are slowly being exposed as <b>the general public increases its power to influence fashion with a greater voice and visibility</b>.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjKYo817wG1z3cgmKIH9tNTUfoKTCZhyJsp-z3pwOaDVlv6aHRLd4pAKFoJbv8VvEsWLOeArLlk-wjmCQZWy7TYERWSp6vEi-rzWey7r6_sF4-poGbD5jhFcef652syejJAGEUS-8bcf4/s1600/19.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjKYo817wG1z3cgmKIH9tNTUfoKTCZhyJsp-z3pwOaDVlv6aHRLd4pAKFoJbv8VvEsWLOeArLlk-wjmCQZWy7TYERWSp6vEi-rzWey7r6_sF4-poGbD5jhFcef652syejJAGEUS-8bcf4/s400/19.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591520223015196306" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 176px; " /></a></div></div><div><br /></div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-26230239181818552212011-04-05T02:34:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.793-07:00Case Study: Jeremy Scott and His Power in Influencing Opposition to Fashion Norms<div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"></div><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">By Jennifer Liu</span></span></div><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 204px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592034653346109618" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhVQLv8yN1idd9JTqI5IBwCHFfFCt7V8s17Ydxrx13Y-JWPUbe4kPEkBX6gqehwVaxQXAV6d4irKRkXaN9Bft7W98EQsihEH-a9OwH-EIuijgRsfJ9kFttKz0vL3hhxD7ThkMej9tdQ1c/s320/JS1.jpg" /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Fashion Designer Jeremy Scott</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><p style="MARGIN: 0px; FONT: 16px Georgia"><span style="LETTER-SPACING: 0px"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span style="WHITE-SPACE: pre" class="Apple-tab-span"></span>Jeremy Scott is a fashion designer that graduated from the Pratt Institute in New York. He moved to Paris in 1995 to make a name for himself in the fashion world and started his own line by 1997. First garnering attention for being �the Midwesterner� in Paris with a quirky and strong sense of personal style, Scott effectively and quickly put his name out in the fashion world with his distinctive style and opposition to fashion. He has evolved tremendously as a designer: from a new comer onto the Paris fashion scene mostly seen as purely entertainment and a break from �serious� fashion, now still holding to the idea that fashion is fun but also currently designing and collaborating with major commercial brands like Adidas and Longchamp, that have helped expand his name as a designer on an international platform and made his distinctive designs recognizable and understood on a global level.</span></span></span></p><p style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px; FONT: 16px Georgia"><span style="LETTER-SPACING: 0px"><span style="WHITE-SPACE: pre" class="Apple-tab-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></span></p><p style="MARGIN: 0px; FONT: 16px Georgia"><span style="LETTER-SPACING: 0px"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 215px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592033635650041586" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb4KNueBaGmE-SJ0Tf1F6mSxDKKMLtzwtnV2s8O0aT65TnZ1WFoBeJQD_mUV84ZHkf9XmWb17zAAxhgHMr1Sb6D4MeQSQuGHf5x3a9CgbmPZ3o0Tb0HgD9wujr3sKXUILokIp4GXfigAo/s320/Adidas+Clothing.jpg" /></span></p><p style="text-align: left;margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Georgia; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></p><p style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px; FONT: 16px Georgia"><span style="LETTER-SPACING: 0px"><span style="WHITE-SPACE: pre" class="Apple-tab-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Scott's 2011 line for Adidas</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><p style="MARGIN: 0px; FONT: 16px Georgia"><span style="LETTER-SPACING: 0px"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span style="WHITE-SPACE: pre" class="Apple-tab-span"></span><span style="WHITE-SPACE: pre" class="Apple-tab-span"></span>In Allison Gill�s essay on �Deconstruction Fashion,� she states that deconstruction should not be always be taken as a negative aspect of fashion, as it so usually is viewed, but rather that new forms of fashion are being explored and constructed through the different and new perspectives that fashion is being looked at from. However, because deconstruction and opposition are so usually looked at with negativity and intolerance, Scott�s emergence onto the fashion scene and the noise he was creating was not something critics took to in the most pleasant of ways. </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Fashion being a world of codes susceptible to change and redefining, is a place where designers have to constantly be �forming and deforming, constructing and destroying, making and undoing clothes� (Gill 491). </span></span></p><p style="MARGIN: 0px; FONT: 16px Georgia"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></p><p style="MARGIN: 0px; FONT: 16px Georgia"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592035891138041762" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi34hcgkOyccCpcvjvEgbp_SYzYT-rPFR-ju6ut0VhIf__Z317MUNbo0mbhmdaNvfJZK16ECRRd3UQJysWFHKsuvVLz85J2NIy9ZHtVtk7oQdRzcp1lMrMJKlmm5H9EsOHs4wDccSvlNbY/s320/Adidas+Wings2.jpg" style="text-align: center; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; width: 320px; display: block; height: 171px; cursor: pointer; " /></p><p style="text-align: center;margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Georgia; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Wing Shoes for Adidas</span></span></span></p><p style="MARGIN: 0px; FONT: 16px Georgia"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></p><p style="MARGIN: 0px; FONT: 16px Georgia"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Scott is doing just that, stretching the codes of fashion by asking what it is exactly that defines one article of clothing. For example, his Wing shoes for Adidas are expanding on the limits to what a shoe should be. </span></span><span style="LETTER-SPACING: 0px"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Fashion is a more relevant art form that reflects the current cultural and social norms and codes and with fashion having such a quick turnover rate, it reinforces that codes are constantly changing: �In fashion, all signs are exchanged just as, on the market, all products come into play as equivalents... Fashion is the pure speculative stage in the order of sings (Baudrillard 467).� Hegemonies and values change over time and with Scott so involved in a lot of pop-culture during and contributing towards the redefining of codes, he is in a position where he has the agency to illustrate new social codes through fashion.</span></span></span></p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><p style="MARGIN: 0px; FONT: 16px Georgia"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span style="LETTER-SPACING: 0px"></span></span></span></p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><p style="MARGIN: 0px; FONT: 16px Georgia"><span style="LETTER-SPACING: 0px"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 305px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592034081318365570" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig2PKU7IseIbWAW65-RelPFTBYoQNBmCvBTM1V-8VDTmRJC5mVtPo2MvPs-3Eulcj_vLjeL8e1N8ltvvMe8oWzsbLwIvIjVRB-qEtUfR2l_4yhSkgE9kBCIs-wgXMGaEVMSfhGVU3T80s/s320/JS+EnjoyGod.jpg" /></span></p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><p style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px; FONT: 16px Georgia"><span style="LETTER-SPACING: 0px"><span style="WHITE-SPACE: pre" class="Apple-tab-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Jeremy Scott Line Fall 2011</span></span></span></span></p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><p style="MARGIN: 0px; FONT: 16px Georgia"><span style="LETTER-SPACING: 0px"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span style="WHITE-SPACE: pre" class="Apple-tab-span"></span><span style="WHITE-SPACE: pre" class="Apple-tab-span"></span>According to Malcolm Barnard, fashion as an expression communicates �the idea that something going on inside someone�s head, individual intention, is somehow externalized and made present in a garment or an ensemble� and if Scott is able to create products that the younger generation wants, then he has the power to deliver it to them successfully even if they differ from the previous hegemonic ideas of what is acceptable in fashion especially since fashion may also communicate �a society�s social or economic structure, or... a culture�s values (Barnard 174).�</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Perhaps Jeremy Scott is not the most recognizable name in fashion by himself, but his number of sponsorships with such a wide range of companies, his cross-media dabbling and his highly recognizable designs that are uniquely his, Scott�s designs reach a large array of buyers and viewers, enough so that his designs and playing around with codes are making a statement and accepted by the younger generation of trendy people that he has legitimate influence on the fashion world. One does not need to be absorbed within the fashion industry in order to have power; power can come from the outside as well and it�s a great power when a designer�s ideas can work their way through society through fashion.</span></span></p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Clip: Jeremy Scott's Fashion Show on Fashion </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia; font-size: small; "><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8JDqma7IFE">www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8JDqma7IFE</a></span></p><p><br /></p>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-40963156289476382752011-04-04T23:36:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.801-07:00The Myth of Street Style<div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhONn7oU3vYsWbspxqb5J9i7PJeoCiaJtuyXjQIpHbNLHMHB2GJYyoaWcUqZ5IBOAjTPhSWEgQt-9gS2dxpKPzwPk3pHsB8_Tv0nn1sN9r1bXVAu9BgNvrjN2oNx8_HY-F9EnpGLoHbjIA/s1600/stsl01-jourdan-streetstyle.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="text-align: left;display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 272px; height: 400px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhONn7oU3vYsWbspxqb5J9i7PJeoCiaJtuyXjQIpHbNLHMHB2GJYyoaWcUqZ5IBOAjTPhSWEgQt-9gS2dxpKPzwPk3pHsB8_Tv0nn1sN9r1bXVAu9BgNvrjN2oNx8_HY-F9EnpGLoHbjIA/s400/stsl01-jourdan-streetstyle.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592004141559212914" /></a></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">by Michelle Marques </span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Sophie Woodward studied for a BA in anthropology at the Univeristy of Cambridge, and an MA in Research Methods at the University of York, She did her PhD in Social Anthropology (Material Culture) at University College London. She has worked in art and design schools, including Nottingham Trent University where she worked as a Research Fellow and Lecturer. She is also the author of </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Why Women Wear What They Wear</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">. She is currently a Lecturer in Sociology at Manchester University. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 20px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Her article �The Myth of Street Style� was published in </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Fashion Theory</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> in 2009. It is based of a study called "Fashionmap" that she conducted in 2001 at </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> Nottingham Trent University. Woodward take a sociological and research approach to her article. </span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyitoFaWxTNi8zHn1f9oq7feZ-Lobw1UYI1qgZI3e4f763eohtuR-zhJaiCNJ7jNC4hN-wjm1hQ443E-Xa6bFUgWGm52dzmSwHp2TK1BOFCUz8ENVB0XLrbv8SnE8K5mRzDc4hzKhamXU/s400/hbz-paris-ss11-Model-street-style-de-2415861.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592005691703731842" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 313px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Woodward based her article on a mass fashion observation (MFO) of young people in Nottingham. Through photographs and interviews she aimed to document various style groupings and their changes over time. She is also concerned with how looks are assembled by consumers in several different locations. In her research project she photographed how young people aged 18-26 dressed in Nottingham and also conducted a brief interview asking where the items the subject were wearing came from. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">In her article Woodward aims to explain what the myth of street style is. Woodward defines street style as an "idea, phrase, practice, and image that can be located in numerous sites." It can be found in the street style sections of magazines, in outifits that are assembled and in exhibitions and academic accounts. Woodward is concerned with the interconnection of these elements which produces the meaning of street style. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Woodward begins her discussion with the origins of street style. She cites Polhemus' defined style groupings of the 1940's such as the "Zooties" in Harlem. She also references punks and their way of dressing as a "reaction against established mainstream fashion design." According to Woodward authenticity is important to street style. Most of the subjects of her research project (78%) were "keen" to mention that they shopped at alternative stores, charity, or second hand shops. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Within these interview the subjects also made clear that they thought the high street was "homogenized and inauthentic, leaving no space for authenticity." Street style begins as an innovative until it "bubbles-up into mainstream, becomes sanitized, and loses its subversive edge." Woodward mentions examples of this phenomenon appearing in publications such as </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> i-D</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">, and </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The Face</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> magazine. An extreme example of this phenomenon appeared in Elle and Vogue when models were portrayed "wearing a fantasized image of The Real Thing." </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Woodward also mentions the importance that the high street plays in street style. Woodward defines high street "by the possession of at least one fashion multiple, whether this a department store, or a standard chain retailer." While many of the people interviewed by Woodward expressed an opposition to the high street 51% of people were only wearing high street clothing and only 5% were wearing nothing. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTMD8KF8ronoeY8WKQFqRDzwj3-8Diqu69suDVue1NuVXqmjytbjHJNfq6_qIhQw5tkK3jpRU9pkjbYqNz1xRlFFBa4oDGoG0K4klajb5nmz_TqcwpmG8avOrjUbDJ8O28b7BK5k88JRI/s400/Jak+and+Jil.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592006153707110434" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 247px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">According to Woodward the high street has made an effort to incorporate what is considered "alternative" into its stores by having a "Vintage" section which includes both genuinely second hand clothing and reproduced vintage style clothing. The companies of the high street know that consumption is "a key factor in the constitution of identities" and therefore this is their attempt to offer diverse ways for consumers to create an identity. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Woodward also spent time researching street style in bars. Her research showed that there was nothing "strikingly unusual" about the style found in the bars she visited. She found that even in the "alternative indie scene." There was still uniformity of items worn such as converse trainers, ballet pumps, skinny jeans and high-waisted belts. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqpZQ_F0U6zVb1WYhJ4MOdW58wmeynCbIOnu_AQY-A0D7dQW728hcsw7ZbKUgko5RHHnbopWAQrnzeB3X9A57EEKxW6r5LIjppcV6jmJWzLwx0gM-G_GxkYwBxemS65v8r29oaOLKbTfo/s400/annadellojakjil.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592004755988646642" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 317px; " /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">At this point of her research Woodward found that the "difference" that is so desperately seeked by the individuals in the study comes "not from wearing an outrageous or novel style, but through how the items are combined, and most importantly where they are sourced from." Woodward argues that street style comes from the way in which ordinary people are able to differentiate themselves only slightly from others. The mixing of second hand items with high street ones becomes the way to judge fashionability due to a strong emphasis on where items come from and not just the look. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWCfXnapbnaMsWo0ysrflWEZyGnUH8Ay3ac69aP4zf0SlOf5Opohq4nR90Ubj90aIRvuDyWCEQAutS-XCy8W6t9tnalsDXWhGw47n-W9T3NWTmY87jdynpHjJqKHngy4H3qvaSgzkEaaA/s400/Picture+4.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592006774515456514" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 271px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Woodward concludes by explaining that the myth of street style is not contained to one domain such as fashion magazines, which can be an "opposition to "real" clothing choices."</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Modern day myths lack that idea that myths are "something to be aspire to or to be imitated." </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Instead mythologized street style figures have become "something to be passively admired." </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Street style cannot be simplified into being just the mix and match of an individual's clothing. The speed of fashion (fast fashion) ultimately does not determine the rate of which people change their clothing. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:11px;"><br /></span></span></div></div></div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-39529104181233413642011-04-04T19:47:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.818-07:00Vogue<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1VL6WJb-ZZzzUcpg5Ck8qiZO9vnHcs36Wn_G0mQ23275aET1GkXvZEmoKbNNZ3fY2nHXjMuUkFdcNUi-NJudD5HlI2953pIhTr04ewMn_MDWJA5OfPW_adT41VOQYHjh1MstEVzxFVww/s1600/Picture+11.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 261px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1VL6WJb-ZZzzUcpg5Ck8qiZO9vnHcs36Wn_G0mQ23275aET1GkXvZEmoKbNNZ3fY2nHXjMuUkFdcNUi-NJudD5HlI2953pIhTr04ewMn_MDWJA5OfPW_adT41VOQYHjh1MstEVzxFVww/s320/Picture+11.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591930916959402754" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhiFFXXVtflIEtoIwEWr1N0DGL0GOfUKZWBuHEiSISWoz-Iuawj-thCNsHDozb3AKuicUftDo-C_uhTvLaax6LiNwoOW1XFVm2wp2P2MPK0crb-ugZ9Wh2fYkzeu4mz7XYWmtf2NgKYjg/s1600/Picture+9.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 203px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhiFFXXVtflIEtoIwEWr1N0DGL0GOfUKZWBuHEiSISWoz-Iuawj-thCNsHDozb3AKuicUftDo-C_uhTvLaax6LiNwoOW1XFVm2wp2P2MPK0crb-ugZ9Wh2fYkzeu4mz7XYWmtf2NgKYjg/s320/Picture+9.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591930910701000754" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMpp4YMX1K90K_aiqLntINVrO85Z5C1BKce2SOmWFZTPiMMAky-C6UuH9HahwOiCmPSKgUmgb_j0kz-UPEXyON-I0r2cK87epzcXAbZiINRWZtNJf5Yx9ErdFJ83rJHFbykSFuf7PHEPE/s1600/Picture+5.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 156px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMpp4YMX1K90K_aiqLntINVrO85Z5C1BKce2SOmWFZTPiMMAky-C6UuH9HahwOiCmPSKgUmgb_j0kz-UPEXyON-I0r2cK87epzcXAbZiINRWZtNJf5Yx9ErdFJ83rJHFbykSFuf7PHEPE/s320/Picture+5.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591929052991927186" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6qqC-0Gac00mq5KcznLD57grlwJQf_0DnnosVV80K1xyahCqTgRfIeTp_r1G36sXWSkipB0KKZLKi09qpa8DeJd03nBPDDQhDVPIgsvJk_AKoe5lnnlCvvEUM_u7CdXCbG1QQoL_4gMo/s1600/Picture+7.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 195px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6qqC-0Gac00mq5KcznLD57grlwJQf_0DnnosVV80K1xyahCqTgRfIeTp_r1G36sXWSkipB0KKZLKi09qpa8DeJd03nBPDDQhDVPIgsvJk_AKoe5lnnlCvvEUM_u7CdXCbG1QQoL_4gMo/s320/Picture+7.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591928428445639362" /></a><br /><!--StartFragment--> <p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal">In order to understand the significance of Vogue.fr, it is important to understand how the image of Vogue was originally created and how it has been transformed into something similar to that of a �brand�.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>It was founded in 1892 by Arthur Baldwin Turnure who created it as a gazette for high society and fashion only factored in when demonstrating the appropriate attire for different high society activities.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>It staked its claim as being a magazine about high culture, by reviewing books, theaters productions, the opera and the likes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>The demographic that comprised the readership was mainly socialites and the wealthy elite class.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>In 1909 Cond� Nast purchased the magazine and transformed it into a fashion magazine, while still maintaining its appearance of being directed towards the elite class of society.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>Unlike before, the readers do not live the life style shown in Vogue, they mainly fantasy about it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>The Vogue Paris website works to reach out to their readers in a more individual way by empowering the reader which in turns maintains the popularity of Vogue Paris and its authority in fashion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-tab-count:1"> </span>The magazine originally had a section that displayed reader�s letters regarding their opinions on different aspects of the magazine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>This public participation has been transformed to the online forum that appears on Vogue.fr.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>It allows active participation by the readers, by allowing them to submit photos of what they consider fashionable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>It pretends to be a democratic process in which readers can vote on which ones they like and decide what goes on the Internet, but in reality the Vogue staff decides what to post online.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>Here Vogue creates what the theorist Haberman coined in the 18<sup>th</sup> century known as the �Public Sphere�.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>A public sphere is where private people actively provide their opinions in a public space, in this case the website.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>It creates a community amongst the readers and empowers them buy making the readers believe that their opinions concerning the fashion industry are valued by Vogue.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>By creating this unique relationship between the readers and the creators of the Vogue Paris website, it keeps people attracted to that particular fashion website.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>In this way the public forum both empowers the readers while simultaneously reaffirming the power of Vogue as the authority on fashion.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-tab-count:1"> </span>The Soir�es Section on the website, functions in a similar way that the online forum does.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>It is a section that harkens back to one of the original aspects of the magazine, which was to keep the elite class connected by showing snapshots of high society parties and the elite class that attended them. Today, this section is viewed more by the public that fantasizes about the world that the �elite� live in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>This perpetuates the high society dream and contributes to Simmel�s point about the lower class practicing in imitation to try and appear like they are part of the �elite� class.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>It allows readers to see what the �elite� class in society wears and how they act.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>It allows the elite class to remain the trendsetters, which also demonstrates how not only do designers hold the power in the fashion industry but different people in society as well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>These images give the reader a V.I.P. pass into a Parisian dream world that they previously had no access to and in <span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>this way it empowers the reader.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>One again this section is used to both reaffirm the power of Vogue and �high society� by seemingly empowering the readers/viewers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal">The first two images demonstrates what the Soir�e section often includes. The "elite" class is often shown as being comprised of entertainers, models and socialites. Here Diane Kruger and Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen are photographed at different parties and descriptions of what they are wearing are given to the side. This allows public to imitate their style , thus placing them in the role of trend setters and authorities in the fashion industry. At the same time , by giving the readers the chance to dress like the "elite" class and allowing them to view these parties, they feel more connected to the the content on the website and in the magazine. </p><p class="MsoNormal">The second set of images show what the online forum looks like. They appear to be normal girls who photograph themselves in their most fashionable outfits. By including photos of the general public it allows a greater amount of readers to relate to the content on the website. Allowing readers to compare themselves with the general public makes the high end fashion industry seem much more approachable since there aren't just celebrities taking part in it. Thus the readers feel more empowered to become the trend setters , when really they are being influenced by images that have been chosen by Vogue. Once again Vogue maintains authority while captivating its readers through self empowerment.</p> <!--EndFragment-->Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-22989017773631071422011-04-04T16:14:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.823-07:00Japanese Street Fashionby Emily Mann<div><br /></div><div>Notes on Yuniya Kawamura's "Japanese Street Fashion: The Urge To Be Seen and To Be Heard"</div><div><br /></div><div>Dr. Yuniya Kawamura is an Assistant Professor of Sociology at the Fashion Institute of Technology. She attended Bunka Fashion College, Japan's primary fashion school then went on to study pattern-making technology at FIT. She continued her education in the field of sociology to get formal training in fashion writing. She has a PhD from Columbia University and wrote her dissertation on Japanese designers in the French fashion industry. In 2004, she published the book <i>The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion</i> from which her article "Japanese Street Fashion: The Urge To Be Seen and To Be Heard" comes. The article takes a sociological and theoretical approach in discussing the relationship between the production and consumption of fashion.</div><div><br /></div><div>She states that fashion emerges out of youth culture that is then commercialized by the industry into being "fashion" and that the youth culture, then, both consumes and produces fashion. Japan's economic recession that started in the 1990s resulted in an uncertainty and disillusionment with society that caused an ideological shift and the resulting breakdown of traditional family and societal values. Under this social and economic environment, Japanese street fashion became more creative and innovative as teens looked for more ways to rebel against traditional values and to challenge and redefine the notion of "fashion."</div><div><br /></div><div><img src="http://www.japan-guide.com/g3/3007_04.jpg" /></div><div>Shibuya 109 Department Store in Tokyo</div><div><br /></div><div>Kawamura discusses the different <b>subcultures</b> of Japanese street fashion, using Dick Hebidge's definition for the term, noting that those in subcultures gain pleasure in feeling like they are being scrutinized and watched. The <b>Ganguro</b> is one such subculture that emerged in the mid-1990s. The word literally means face-black, or blackface, and those who wear these fashions dye their hair blonde or orange and have heavily tanned skin, intense makeup, and bright miniskirts or short pants and platform heel boots. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoiYTgnIerQbFIQf_tkKEayS1geNJGgD4OdMGzG_wXKOuNjH_Gb6YZ_2_whwvTbBkXTJnZePbEnHG0xfvvKqCFhf5xKlQ4khNqlbp3ZEK3l1UCU0Km2dpgcpEy8UOZpHG-ckfGLgYamtU/s1600/ganguro2.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoiYTgnIerQbFIQf_tkKEayS1geNJGgD4OdMGzG_wXKOuNjH_Gb6YZ_2_whwvTbBkXTJnZePbEnHG0xfvvKqCFhf5xKlQ4khNqlbp3ZEK3l1UCU0Km2dpgcpEy8UOZpHG-ckfGLgYamtU/s320/ganguro2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591881497760941234" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 219px; " /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qbyhg2_uuizv_mtCN5CIVtwzEoz4kpmk490OsMK6AMHs-RnHHCvXWByFPb2VzMttRwSJVWlBUqVbRlEb0TS9880QLWxzfbPzvY5ynNXnRQ8IHyDfUjwAWacOQubA0BV4-_AGFIeBh0A/s1600/ganguro1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qbyhg2_uuizv_mtCN5CIVtwzEoz4kpmk490OsMK6AMHs-RnHHCvXWByFPb2VzMttRwSJVWlBUqVbRlEb0TS9880QLWxzfbPzvY5ynNXnRQ8IHyDfUjwAWacOQubA0BV4-_AGFIeBh0A/s320/ganguro1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591881498508415218" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 241px; " /></a></div><div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL1mvjfkuywvWj-OaaQ2bwDeTSNRkzZEnqVm_bKgVm3oYvA63OYgAWv2iE1jmBvNWYcKcYruzlfvIVTgxkYa9zII3CQzfOzr__5eXL7Y3X_rmvyLG2p7IYiW5ADbVSaO50laJgxPlv7ZE/s320/ganguro3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591881507133206642" style="cursor: pointer; width: 214px; height: 320px; " /></div><div>Ganguro subculture</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5UXVL0RRH-Wi2aLUE76UFIBdk21SWjqZxleo6s7KXx7eGINNSGfv_bcdbJ8qWjMTT_yBToUP81yOG-_OVYBvowtflMaLI2zy-4K5QGpmzr8tYB4PozzzJc80TBisOfD-4AV5WJJtUC_U/s1600/yamanba.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5UXVL0RRH-Wi2aLUE76UFIBdk21SWjqZxleo6s7KXx7eGINNSGfv_bcdbJ8qWjMTT_yBToUP81yOG-_OVYBvowtflMaLI2zy-4K5QGpmzr8tYB4PozzzJc80TBisOfD-4AV5WJJtUC_U/s320/yamanba.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591919520496154322" style="cursor: pointer; width: 250px; height: 237px; " /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYcBqCq3T9Z0wCmxiZ9EpvOkZNOmnGRBXUO9-m-wO0TmvyJ46AJNm7N2pkrHMV8wtbs5C1yXF3FlMY7djgw6bxZ7HUdHMSWvTXUf7nJV78CBR522h7Xb_bV9rJQaVPDjAZSKlmlPes3y8/s1600/yam2.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYcBqCq3T9Z0wCmxiZ9EpvOkZNOmnGRBXUO9-m-wO0TmvyJ46AJNm7N2pkrHMV8wtbs5C1yXF3FlMY7djgw6bxZ7HUdHMSWvTXUf7nJV78CBR522h7Xb_bV9rJQaVPDjAZSKlmlPes3y8/s320/yam2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591920850470500898" style="cursor: pointer; width: 222px; height: 320px; " /></a></div><div>Yamamba</div><div><br /></div><div>The Gothic Lolita subculture has been one of the more popular fashion looks in the Harajuku Station area in Tokyo since 1999, when it emerged as a counter-reaction to the Ganguro style. The subculture can continue to be further divided with distinctive elements to the styles.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0q36a58YawyappN30uN-m_0_5Hedc-umNTTfq1kbrBJztIYJv6LFU39NUPoDukhN6ZVoSQWPfLsITqTlOXfncJAvced4stzDcdDzqQvrz-E3-CbJ-SIRXDA9RZrt8z6a0kloHanmSO1s/s1600/gothiclolita.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0q36a58YawyappN30uN-m_0_5Hedc-umNTTfq1kbrBJztIYJv6LFU39NUPoDukhN6ZVoSQWPfLsITqTlOXfncJAvced4stzDcdDzqQvrz-E3-CbJ-SIRXDA9RZrt8z6a0kloHanmSO1s/s320/gothiclolita.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591923689052666098" style="cursor: pointer; width: 247px; height: 320px; " /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWEL-FWkxWCsigrEg1v_E8AWUcj1hn8FGrNJLMCFdkRosSpMV958nfa4iW9U4KRLmEhxBKxHqzscZqo-3XuAWtgR_jSHFU4o_ES2RhLeFdrNP4lQ8xcXGaWczLM5sp34GNEzg30sQ2e0M/s1600/punk.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWEL-FWkxWCsigrEg1v_E8AWUcj1hn8FGrNJLMCFdkRosSpMV958nfa4iW9U4KRLmEhxBKxHqzscZqo-3XuAWtgR_jSHFU4o_ES2RhLeFdrNP4lQ8xcXGaWczLM5sp34GNEzg30sQ2e0M/s320/punk.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591924480280724178" style="cursor: pointer; width: 214px; height: 320px; " /></a></div><div>Gothic Lolita<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Punk Gothic Lolita</div><div><br /></div><div>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoYY-rAcgzs&feature=related</div><div>(Lolita fashion show in the Netherlands)</div><div><br /></div><div>The distinctive looks constitute an externally visible group identity and a shared sign of affiliation. They communicate group ideas, intentions, and thoughts, but they are only functional when within specific locations. The styles portray a symbolic subcultural identity that is societally based, rather than politically or ideologically so. Kawamura concludes her piece by expressing that fashion is a collective activity that stems from the social relationships found in a subculture of shared norms and values. Their expression of such ideologies through clothing and fashion helps guide the professional designers to upcoming trends, demonstrating the symbiotic relationship between producers and consumers of fashion. The article remains relevant today with our increased global consciousness and appropriation of other cultures. In addition, high end brands that take this look, like Comme de Garcons, represent that shift from consumer to producer and from street fashion to high fashion.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-28491112764489651652011-04-04T12:20:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.831-07:00What Happened to Fashion? : Teri Agins<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">By Jessica Noone<br /></span></span><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:trackmoves/> <w:trackformatting/> <w:punctuationkerning/> <w:validateagainstschemas/> <w:saveifxmlinvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:ignoremixedcontent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:alwaysshowplaceholdertext>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:donotpromoteqf/> 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</w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style> <![endif]--> <p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><b><u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Author</span></span></u></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Teri Agins is the lead fashion writer for </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The Wall Street Journal</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> and starred as a guest judge alongside Heidi Klum, Nina Garcia, and Michael Kors on </span></span></span><i><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Project Runway</span></span></span></i><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Season 3, Episode 11.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><b><u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Context</span></span></u></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">This chapter �What Happened to Fashion?� serves as the introduction to her first book �</span></span></span><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The End of Fashion: How Marketing Changed the Clothing Business Forever,� which was published in 1999 by William Morrow and Co. in New York. </span></span></span></p> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span><b><u><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXMyzVh62fzFaM1ciLL5p8LipgWGKK4sC9QSp0R7nqa7UVl2iBDRWpKxA0_9-zXMMBe5D0aNNY0Ko8mj4_hxB6zwfT3FtLlOlcL0JdjruEJyZ5J3DpvtSwxz3pLYBd1zelS0q4VU86l9E/s1600/teri+agins.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 182px; height: 277px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXMyzVh62fzFaM1ciLL5p8LipgWGKK4sC9QSp0R7nqa7UVl2iBDRWpKxA0_9-zXMMBe5D0aNNY0Ko8mj4_hxB6zwfT3FtLlOlcL0JdjruEJyZ5J3DpvtSwxz3pLYBd1zelS0q4VU86l9E/s320/teri+agins.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591812031455726802" border="0" /></a></u></b><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Fashion is a constantly moving target, working under the �imperative of planned obsolescence�. (404) Agins tells us about a revolutionary shift that occurred in the fashion industry that wrested control away from the fashion industry powers and toward the consumer.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Citing the examples of failed marketing of short skirts and the monastic look in the 1980s, the fashion industry lost its ability to dictate trends to the public.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">She tells us that �the power now belongs to us, the consumers, who decide what we want to wear, when we buy it, and how much we pay for it.� (404) The author then cites four megatrends which changed the way we view fashion.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1. Women Let Go of Fashion</span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Women started getting serious about their careers and lost interest in the frivolous clothing fashion was turning out.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">They preferred the authoritative power look necessary for the workplace.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Many salon deaths, such as the 1992 closing of Martha, put Parisian suppliers at risk.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">In fact, �styles were no longer trickling down from the couture to the masses.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Instead, trends were bubbling up from the streets, from urban teenagers and the forces in pop music and counterculture with a new vital ingenuity that was infectious.� (405)</span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2. People Stopped Dressing Up</span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">By the end of the 1980s, most Americans were wearing casual jeans and sneakers around, even to the office.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Men rejected the business suit, led by the .com boom and Internet CEOs.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Alcoa became the first major corporation to allow casual office attire, spawning �casual Fridays� all around the country. Many boutiques suffered and closed, like Charivari, as Americans no longer felt the need to dress to impress.</span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3. People�s Values Changed with Regard to Fashion</span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Stores like The Limited and Gap made fashion available at every price level, and designer labels started to seem useless.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">It was fashionable to pay less money and to be a bargain hunter.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Studies by </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Consumer Reports</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> opened the public�s eyes to the �Wizard of Oz discovery: behind the labels of many famous name brands was some pretty ordinary merchandise.� (406) Additionally, the movement of manufacturing facilities out of the US made quality available at a low price, compatible with the classic clothing trends of the 1990s, and the fact that Generation X-ers were used to the wash-and-wear functionality of clothing.</span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">4. Top Designers Stopped Gambling on Fashion</span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Many fashion houses, like Polo Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger, are publicly traded companies, which must maintain steady growth for their shareholders.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Therefore, they can no longer afford to gamble on the whims of the fashion industry. Agins tells us that �today, a designer�s creativity expresses itself more than ever in the marketing rather than in the actual clothes�fashion has returned to its roots: selling image.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Image is the form and marketing is the function.� (408) Branding and logos are the main ways that designers can distinguish their otherwise ordinary clothes.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Fashion publications have also lost their power to make or break trends in editorial pages.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The consumer is king.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Agins ends by proclaiming, �those who will survive the end of fashion will reinvent themselves enough times and with enough flexibility and resources to anticipate, not manipulate, the twenty-first-century customer.� (408)</span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Relevancy - </span></span><span style="font-style: italic;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Consumer Reports</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">:<br /></span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.nbcnewyork.com/blogs/threadny/THREAD-ShopSmart-Poll-Finds-Women-Wear-4-of-7-Pairs-of-Jeans-on-Average-98339769.html">http://www.nbcnewyork.com/blogs/threadny/THREAD-ShopSmart-Poll-Finds-Women-Wear-4-of-7-Pairs-of-Jeans-on-Average-98339769.html</a></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; Georgia","serif";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></p>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-65559024060959979112011-04-04T09:49:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.839-07:00Case Study: Fashion and the Burqa Controversy in France- Justina Lee<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg91wxpfelvi3MrIFSb9GV4Q2jhcEc5g0-nh1rqwNYSYaWucKd1kIKdnBd3VXGiIHc77bfGBIdxOcVBGrbJNo1jLHdZctCzJDtZFgRX7KjlxMIt-zs-waUV_9B3XXigSjBCpfTL1xnpGWk/s1600/393px-EFatima_in_UAE_with_niqab.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 210px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg91wxpfelvi3MrIFSb9GV4Q2jhcEc5g0-nh1rqwNYSYaWucKd1kIKdnBd3VXGiIHc77bfGBIdxOcVBGrbJNo1jLHdZctCzJDtZFgRX7KjlxMIt-zs-waUV_9B3XXigSjBCpfTL1xnpGWk/s320/393px-EFatima_in_UAE_with_niqab.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591782021043836130" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;"> The niqab - this will no longer be legal in public places in France starting next week</span><br /><br />Starting this month, no one is allowed to cover their faces in public places in France. French politicians have justified this new law by referring to the burqa and framing it as a religious symbol of female repression contrary to French beliefs in secularism and gender equality. As the garment itself poses no tangible harm, the point of contention has rested on its link to these French principles. Fashion, which continuously negotiates the meaning of clothes, thus becomes especially relevant. Vogue Paris featured the burqa in a Arabian-style shoot, mixing it with varied styles and conspicuous sexuality.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw-43zj9CEARralabkn05L64Uz7ch3NDZaHMEk6k-kW9wg_Eab2gjgNfqq8rxNvm_SAUL9Vvjl9BnNwWdQraSKhL-XP8o7SmSH2c2KgflphyphenhyphendoSYLqTa6lFmqCDNGoXJMVenCK5BBE1w8/s1600/voyons_voir_Vogue_A_porter_par_Inez_van_Lamsweerde_et_Vinoodh_Matadin_1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 315px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw-43zj9CEARralabkn05L64Uz7ch3NDZaHMEk6k-kW9wg_Eab2gjgNfqq8rxNvm_SAUL9Vvjl9BnNwWdQraSKhL-XP8o7SmSH2c2KgflphyphenhyphendoSYLqTa6lFmqCDNGoXJMVenCK5BBE1w8/s320/voyons_voir_Vogue_A_porter_par_Inez_van_Lamsweerde_et_Vinoodh_Matadin_1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591778529245819954" border="0" /></a><!--[if gte mso 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mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style> <![endif]--><span style="line-height: 115%; font-style: italic;font-family:";font-size:100%;"> �Vogue-</span><span style="line-height: 115%; font-style: italic;font-family:";font-size:100%;">�</span><span style="line-height: 115%;font-family:";font-size:12pt;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:georgia;"><span style="font-style: italic;">-Porter� by Inez & Vinoodh (Feb 2010)</span><br /></span></span></span><br />An international line-up of celebrity designers redesigned the abaya (an Islamic dress) for a fashion show in Paris. Fashion designers such as Hussein Chalayan and Jun Takahashi of Undercover have also reinterpreted the burqa for their runway shows.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3dOCrP3qMccGYTUAyhNHGUD8ENTyhTzUhbhyDkIjgOjxHBogQuIsZg6WpluagfP-zRbs_8XqJWzOx_ATUvsOYxj7_w0pNEoCxwo0PPiltDhBD0iX77kZun7HYJCWCLEY-PDlySmkqDp4/s1600/20090628_abayas_560x375.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3dOCrP3qMccGYTUAyhNHGUD8ENTyhTzUhbhyDkIjgOjxHBogQuIsZg6WpluagfP-zRbs_8XqJWzOx_ATUvsOYxj7_w0pNEoCxwo0PPiltDhBD0iX77kZun7HYJCWCLEY-PDlySmkqDp4/s320/20090628_abayas_560x375.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591779435775302882" border="0" /></a><span style="display: block;" id="formatbar_Buttons"><span class="on" style="display: block;" id="formatbar_Italic" title="Italic" onmouseover="ButtonHoverOn(this);" onmouseout="ButtonHoverOff(this);" onmouseup="" onmousedown="CheckFormatting(event);FormatbarButton('richeditorframe', this, 4);ButtonMouseDown(this);"><img src="http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gif" alt="Italic" class="gl_italic" border="0" /></span></span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;"> Redesigned abayas at George V Hotel in Paris</span><br /><br /><br />Similarly, protestors have used fashion to challenge the rationale behind the law. Princess Hijab, a graffiti artist, draws hijabs on sexualized fashion advertisements in the Paris metro.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGGWqp8v-mRiff9YdzGlWAeVW4j_kSE2-yonKGgN7TfEUXO9zN4SpmOeMHZhLSLUgkrMB1o_XAqiMxenhMVtoe1nOSj4Agxz1c9GOvDtZ3xwRnfAksEoVVnkGOKbx_-whY_Alh5jomm9o/s1600/Princess-Hijab-008.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGGWqp8v-mRiff9YdzGlWAeVW4j_kSE2-yonKGgN7TfEUXO9zN4SpmOeMHZhLSLUgkrMB1o_XAqiMxenhMVtoe1nOSj4Agxz1c9GOvDtZ3xwRnfAksEoVVnkGOKbx_-whY_Alh5jomm9o/s320/Princess-Hijab-008.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591780725606155362" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;"> Princess Hijab</span><br /><br />NiqaBitch, a duo of female university students, strutted the streets of Paris in a niqab and hotpants.<br /><br /><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Uw32TU7uAi4" allowfullscreen="" width="480" frameborder="0" height="390"></iframe><br /><br />Even though fashion may not be able to sway public opinion, it embodies and reinforces the opposing arguments to the ban. 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unhidewhenused="false" qformat="true" name="Subtle Reference"> <w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="32" semihidden="false" unhidewhenused="false" qformat="true" name="Intense Reference"> <w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="33" semihidden="false" unhidewhenused="false" qformat="true" name="Book Title"> <w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="37" name="Bibliography"> <w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="39" qformat="true" name="TOC Heading"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style> <![endif]--><span style=";font-family:georgia;font-size:100%;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">simultaneously undermines the religious connotations <i style="">and</i> contradicts the French <i style="">la</i></span><i style=""><span style="line-height: 115%;">�</span><span style="line-height: 115%;">cit</span><span style="line-height: 115%;">�</span></i><span style="line-height: 115%;">, which rejects all ostentatious religious symbols.</span></span> Even more importantly, the amalgamation of signs - as seen in the Vogue Paris editorial, NiqaBitch's outfit and Princess Hijab's art - attests to the fluidity of meaning and thus challenges the relationship between the burqa and its conventional interpretations. Even though these interpretations do not change as quickly as fashion trends do, fashion embodies the instability of meaning that has come to define the opposing arguments as well as the postmodern culture of our times.<div><br /></div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-14559894203768931952011-04-04T00:45:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.846-07:00Johanna Blakley: Lessons from fashion's free cultureOn the topic of lack of copyright on designs, there was a TED talk last year discussing the topic by <a href="http://www.ted.com/speakers/johanna_blakley.html">USC's Johanna Blakely</a>. Admittedly, it is not Blakely's best presentation; her more recent talk on social media and gender is better constructed.<br /><br /><!--copy and paste--><object width="334" height="326"><param name="movie" value="http://video.ted.com/assets/player/swf/EmbedPlayer.swf"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"/><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><param name="bgColor" value="#ffffff"></param> <param name="flashvars" value="vu=http://video.ted.com/talks/dynamic/JohannaBlakley_2009X-medium.flv&su=http://images.ted.com/images/ted/tedindex/embed-posters/JohannaBlakely-2009X.embed_thumbnail.jpg&vw=320&vh=240&ap=0&ti=866&lang=eng&introDuration=15330&adDuration=4000&postAdDuration=830&adKeys=talk=johanna_blakley_lessons_from_fashion_s_free_culture;year=2010;theme=unconventional_explanations;theme=tales_of_invention;theme=design_like_you_give_a_damn;theme=not_business_as_usual;theme=the_creative_spark;theme=art_unusual;theme=new_on_ted_com;theme=women_reshaping_the_world;event=TEDxUSC;&preAdTag=tconf.ted/embed;tile=1;sz=512x288;" /><embed src="http://video.ted.com/assets/player/swf/EmbedPlayer.swf" pluginspace="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" bgColor="#ffffff" width="334" height="326" allowFullScreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" flashvars="vu=http://video.ted.com/talks/dynamic/JohannaBlakley_2009X-medium.flv&su=http://images.ted.com/images/ted/tedindex/embed-posters/JohannaBlakely-2009X.embed_thumbnail.jpg&vw=320&vh=240&ap=0&ti=866&lang=eng&introDuration=15330&adDuration=4000&postAdDuration=830&adKeys=talk=johanna_blakley_lessons_from_fashion_s_free_culture;year=2010;theme=unconventional_explanations;theme=tales_of_invention;theme=design_like_you_give_a_damn;theme=not_business_as_usual;theme=the_creative_spark;theme=art_unusual;theme=new_on_ted_com;theme=women_reshaping_the_world;event=TEDxUSC;"></embed></object><br /><br />- Barbara LeungInternet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-75367093852886804922011-03-29T10:30:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.851-07:00Opposition to Fashion<div style="text-align: center;"><u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></u></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB2fS9Fo9O7B0LNVQIiKZ5czxmVMPFqVobYy-GTKLY9U65az2SfTAsreFhETBTm5RoQYyWXgtnIeeXY9HbGwEneYU0SfXZiRZR2i_5maPiwQ9n22kxCIUmyKYPcKdFl-H5S0B-PB2Ycqs/s400/22774732-22774735-large.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589108284449193170" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 288px; " /></span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Opposition to fashion can take many forms. Above the Big Lebowski bathrobe is a simple disinterest in adornment or to unite or separate. Other types of opposition include opposition to Western aesthetics that dominate the fashion industry, opposition to the forms of fashion as fixed, and oppositions to the rules of the fashion industry evident in counterfeiting.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYJ87YbuUP5UfHjyMv-1VMFWi1auK25mjHELbU6R_zkqa1-FlLU54MeKAah9VDTOnPWKE6gOPZoVcDzPrJTY3TmLTch6MLYrQoGGXZgp2HanlWnvmMjmuQE9Vw0yP9PtVelmD-PT6YPnA/s1600/1.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYJ87YbuUP5UfHjyMv-1VMFWi1auK25mjHELbU6R_zkqa1-FlLU54MeKAah9VDTOnPWKE6gOPZoVcDzPrJTY3TmLTch6MLYrQoGGXZgp2HanlWnvmMjmuQE9Vw0yP9PtVelmD-PT6YPnA/s400/1.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588942831046840898" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 269px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></span><p style="margin-top: 0pt; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; text-align: left; direction: ltr; unicode-bidi: embed; word-break: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></p><p style="margin-top: 0pt; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; text-align: left; direction: ltr; unicode-bidi: embed; word-break: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Speak to the children of Israel and say to them they should make themselves </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">tzitzit</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> on the corners of their clothing throughout their generations, and give the </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">tzitzit</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> of each corner a thread of blue. And they shall be </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">tzitzit</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> for you, and when you look at them you will remember all of the Lord's commandments and do them and not follow after your heart and after your eyes which lead you astray. Numbers 15</span></span></p><p style="margin-top: 0pt; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; text-align: left; direction: ltr; unicode-bidi: embed; word-break: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></p><p style="margin-top: 0pt; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; text-align: left; direction: ltr; unicode-bidi: embed; word-break: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The above Jewish text is a call for believers to distinguish themselves from others through clothing. This is part of what we have learned about fashion as adornment and a tool to unite and separate groups. The meaningful adornment is also aligned with a set of modesty codes that oppose Western fashion as indicated in the sign below.</span></span></p><p style="margin-top: 0pt; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; text-align: left; direction: ltr; unicode-bidi: embed; word-break: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></p></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "></span></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUQQ4rK_qJUQQR8dYUKDTKLwfRYswqhW_yxzjwfIBvXucMxotDXqv6gvlqBlkmq1VOPgldPDJxL1KZHTEZO8mBJSenaqvU32W0ITaqg13uV8N5rbPPALbq98O5FNF891b7LAh2M7KGMg4/s1600/2.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUQQ4rK_qJUQQR8dYUKDTKLwfRYswqhW_yxzjwfIBvXucMxotDXqv6gvlqBlkmq1VOPgldPDJxL1KZHTEZO8mBJSenaqvU32W0ITaqg13uV8N5rbPPALbq98O5FNF891b7LAh2M7KGMg4/s400/2.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588942821967664994" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 296px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The three faiths of the God of Abraham - Judaism, Islam and Christianity - aim to oppose the Western fashion aesthetics and be separate but they are united by the same full coverage modest look for women.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh937NeA8fEPVLF1Vil11z_Pzkju1DTwyopOcKZ2E4GenAm4eWs9GomZuVB0ac7n8GTPj6W3JmZPO1i3u2FhUJSupwJF_QYaGH2S-CNfB7uO6XFl5iHR3KzgtOEBaN3sV1XogIB-prPo2o/s1600/3.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh937NeA8fEPVLF1Vil11z_Pzkju1DTwyopOcKZ2E4GenAm4eWs9GomZuVB0ac7n8GTPj6W3JmZPO1i3u2FhUJSupwJF_QYaGH2S-CNfB7uO6XFl5iHR3KzgtOEBaN3sV1XogIB-prPo2o/s400/3.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588942816244679714" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 145px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNyAJLFWj61Ik3q3JeXmu6iBNkV6_e_Ga5p4E7mwfY7D_TbKM-McQBp9_bYZpPH9NYb1zriFez_WKWkWyqYjStqkO0dRKBqi1E8lsgF1dul1jSbpKM8xsgpmmABbNVwCXp5SQCeGwiA7A/s1600/4.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNyAJLFWj61Ik3q3JeXmu6iBNkV6_e_Ga5p4E7mwfY7D_TbKM-McQBp9_bYZpPH9NYb1zriFez_WKWkWyqYjStqkO0dRKBqi1E8lsgF1dul1jSbpKM8xsgpmmABbNVwCXp5SQCeGwiA7A/s400/4.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588942814721533474" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 318px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Designers can take the aesthetics of opposition and integrate them into fashion as seen above in Hussein Chalayan, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Rick Owens.<br /></span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlZlUq0UcwC3xnvv9uYXeuva9nDQRw1Qjx6WlLPCw5u4aR0HM_Ft_X75ktET7gTeXDSN39MwTPHb5f-ASPgenwu8Z7QcHFl4_tlJx34GsPm_Wp3yO9fbMAli_sdcDBWTa5tIQdvK04srI/s1600/5.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlZlUq0UcwC3xnvv9uYXeuva9nDQRw1Qjx6WlLPCw5u4aR0HM_Ft_X75ktET7gTeXDSN39MwTPHb5f-ASPgenwu8Z7QcHFl4_tlJx34GsPm_Wp3yO9fbMAli_sdcDBWTa5tIQdvK04srI/s400/5.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588942287212719346" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 270px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Below the fashion company Moschino uses opposition as its ad campaign. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrCAx3Mo0CE1EpFobLoy8O07F3XHiHEDXPxKW3u0LTQ3IKlA1gPV9grXmNM6jHVFD4Gg23budtN3d73zk6NaxMW9h39xrP-uK0D5MGdgS1AcHdZi-mVZhBtTRcORHsJRwLjHOev_QyUQU/s1600/6.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrCAx3Mo0CE1EpFobLoy8O07F3XHiHEDXPxKW3u0LTQ3IKlA1gPV9grXmNM6jHVFD4Gg23budtN3d73zk6NaxMW9h39xrP-uK0D5MGdgS1AcHdZi-mVZhBtTRcORHsJRwLjHOev_QyUQU/s400/6.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588942281127176818" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 400px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Fashion writer Fred Davis wrote a text called "Anti-Fashion" which identified 5 types of oppositional strategies. Below "</span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">utilitarian outrage</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">" in the Russian constructivist designs and Gap, is an emphasis on basic forms without constant modifications.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlX5It-tlcoRwSedpKMINIJ-eJaCpLss1tQiM8BIPhLHV9bAGRvQCprWgNGpf6Yy4fnQggb1ZjZ040pIQcjLJyb5URMCBJjIOJsdpbAXC54PICr39Z2i0ZADmQIdcJMAZXmdmk46zWrjA/s1600/7.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlX5It-tlcoRwSedpKMINIJ-eJaCpLss1tQiM8BIPhLHV9bAGRvQCprWgNGpf6Yy4fnQggb1ZjZ040pIQcjLJyb5URMCBJjIOJsdpbAXC54PICr39Z2i0ZADmQIdcJMAZXmdmk46zWrjA/s400/7.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588942276032548962" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 221px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYrp4RduBdvBeRgWzXmBIwKArMh2u75mYcnJvPCipd6-OXmvbGDywp6HSbILImnOHO_QD5HrKZyQ2K069XBLF-415doS8LYnLEpaQDJLqQ0tSVRuoIFGLZvTPFv343_yyn_UG7qyokei8/s1600/8.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYrp4RduBdvBeRgWzXmBIwKArMh2u75mYcnJvPCipd6-OXmvbGDywp6HSbILImnOHO_QD5HrKZyQ2K069XBLF-415doS8LYnLEpaQDJLqQ0tSVRuoIFGLZvTPFv343_yyn_UG7qyokei8/s400/8.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588942270572353858" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 252px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above "</span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">naturalism</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">," and below "</span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">feminism</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">" have opposed confining specific forms for day wear and women.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_f63vGAMrx8aNEHGAuEPZTNSWp4TVgs2P3VTz7NpU3uI1JS7ZyaOY2Yyg61rpaSLg0OK07FsrGUypixzIJRJzU6ashFSCaYgpzc_fCXe-UDRbYhUWCSD4tdeZM7avAR5gPVV4KcKeXu4/s1600/9.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_f63vGAMrx8aNEHGAuEPZTNSWp4TVgs2P3VTz7NpU3uI1JS7ZyaOY2Yyg61rpaSLg0OK07FsrGUypixzIJRJzU6ashFSCaYgpzc_fCXe-UDRbYhUWCSD4tdeZM7avAR5gPVV4KcKeXu4/s400/9.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588942263868836018" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 297px; height: 400px; " /></a><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Fw6KhZqSNFkSMZC0q2vdMckxOqXfsyd3YD2tEUDT-EIAxel4S9eP-i25q7_54VfCOpYEdnpDN0ncyh1ciS4hA3xzks2t1yNIf4bxtTOIK8sU0KABvNNINylJ13a92qeAxpsw7oEtF8Q/s1600/10.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Fw6KhZqSNFkSMZC0q2vdMckxOqXfsyd3YD2tEUDT-EIAxel4S9eP-i25q7_54VfCOpYEdnpDN0ncyh1ciS4hA3xzks2t1yNIf4bxtTOIK8sU0KABvNNINylJ13a92qeAxpsw7oEtF8Q/s400/10.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588941485881379842" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 189px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above "</span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">conservative skepticism</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">" and below "</span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">minority and faith groups</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">" demonstrate resistance to mass culture and fashion as a power system.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ6qM8ECd3HzO-svkXlWrrw6lwK3J0n06xnyVtzaqibCRFTXkiqaKJLMm71WhylBgV9tVw-LSsaHqW5PDihG63DSG71AuFQWrZDXAOwgmhFnMdXrCUxahJKv-8714iurYZjzOPPhyQfi4/s1600/11.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ6qM8ECd3HzO-svkXlWrrw6lwK3J0n06xnyVtzaqibCRFTXkiqaKJLMm71WhylBgV9tVw-LSsaHqW5PDihG63DSG71AuFQWrZDXAOwgmhFnMdXrCUxahJKv-8714iurYZjzOPPhyQfi4/s400/11.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588941478797040738" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 284px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">"</span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The Islamic factor</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">" in fashion is a combination of opposition to Western aesthetics and an embrace of fashion luxury goods. The government monitors fashion media as seen below left, in which pages are either removed from magazines or images are blacked out. The women still seek the goods either through accessories or under the hijab.</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgidq67kRz4dRusbGlv9AtfjOy1BrYMh2p69Liyb5Q_sgpzNqckzjyCyvLDQsK7DGdYvcA_ZKPSt2FQ0V9bSNgq1Asx-xNhKGKFh4xl4CUH2VkNP-7274qMA3QbWWQy8LoE1UHS-iHWQp4/s400/12..png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588941726448473698" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 240px; " /></span><div><div style="text-align: center; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Below the luxury department store Villa Moda in Kuwait emphasizes Western luxury labels.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr-lPyPBeY3ihg2gz1rh5jtWYTPnm3XemUUXMzqvTLrH9LuSMAr4RpgxK90eoqEDVaRa4dsmtT1FY-2lC2w1lxQSmQlZJI_RL5uYJArCjizNHmFB2px2d3wjlwP11FP8vBSu9NNVWgf1A/s1600/14.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr-lPyPBeY3ihg2gz1rh5jtWYTPnm3XemUUXMzqvTLrH9LuSMAr4RpgxK90eoqEDVaRa4dsmtT1FY-2lC2w1lxQSmQlZJI_RL5uYJArCjizNHmFB2px2d3wjlwP11FP8vBSu9NNVWgf1A/s400/14.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588941455036399906" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 208px; " /></a><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyCkCSsoUHkgX7OOA84-A4uMqXJvummahcq5_xAHg_QZujdPWujNoFLB1YXLdmMY13ELDw3TT_JftVKAnWYs9U6p6043gtUWk2FgLxnffK9BMXDEl2Q7zyohpllnHtA2H9UMoBdUOcrNI/s1600/15.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyCkCSsoUHkgX7OOA84-A4uMqXJvummahcq5_xAHg_QZujdPWujNoFLB1YXLdmMY13ELDw3TT_JftVKAnWYs9U6p6043gtUWk2FgLxnffK9BMXDEl2Q7zyohpllnHtA2H9UMoBdUOcrNI/s400/15.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588940528492279074" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 283px; height: 400px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above, women in the gulf have taken luxury scarves as a sign of their wealth. Some argue their oppositional aesthetic has a power to influence the West as in the Hermes look from 2011 above. Men have remained more resistant to clothing and maintain their aesthetic opposed to the suit. However fashion brands have worked their way into automobiles. Below both Gucci and Versace create custom goods just for the Arab market.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtAgJ3auVD3OlcioAn7QKVKKo3FczEGJuC5w-3yAMrExeFalNM8Rin29ghMoxj9uc0hHzHmCx3kTbZjBA9MCDETXHrNhimA2M9QZfVyqBTP24MzKDubaRoJ9QZU7eD6HwixIPg60QzUEE/s1600/16.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtAgJ3auVD3OlcioAn7QKVKKo3FczEGJuC5w-3yAMrExeFalNM8Rin29ghMoxj9uc0hHzHmCx3kTbZjBA9MCDETXHrNhimA2M9QZfVyqBTP24MzKDubaRoJ9QZU7eD6HwixIPg60QzUEE/s400/16.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588940511090134994" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 169px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEishwM-1lfJQbNyZ8m4doxoLEtL1UtnKlYhv_eUy3e1nGluEeiuQ8_FgQyFV6-_Kq1GJNFscOrEYSIdCPXPfUjmIIjP4i6B2Dav7xB8jdps14s9icgX9UNSdBghGCroZWgP8RIBwnBvkDw/s1600/17.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEishwM-1lfJQbNyZ8m4doxoLEtL1UtnKlYhv_eUy3e1nGluEeiuQ8_FgQyFV6-_Kq1GJNFscOrEYSIdCPXPfUjmIIjP4i6B2Dav7xB8jdps14s9icgX9UNSdBghGCroZWgP8RIBwnBvkDw/s400/17.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588940504587560786" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 291px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above an Arab fashion show and the new jihad women's magazine. Below left Vogue Paris featured an Arab friendly editorial in 2010 and right Princess Hijab who is modifying Western ads in Paris.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2MnKvIz_F-He9ZpkDXIS4eLhjDTvLZtJ6pni1ivwTkedTE7nFgMDRjsYplHQovcCLzwtbxoVFh0GMYrGoG-RpmWFbS5_NDGwafTVMteHmlfFZtivta0dhJmW-g2DiHu1_pHp7JZ7_5Tc/s1600/19.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2MnKvIz_F-He9ZpkDXIS4eLhjDTvLZtJ6pni1ivwTkedTE7nFgMDRjsYplHQovcCLzwtbxoVFh0GMYrGoG-RpmWFbS5_NDGwafTVMteHmlfFZtivta0dhJmW-g2DiHu1_pHp7JZ7_5Tc/s400/19.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588940487462335762" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 228px; " /></a><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">A more formal opposition to fashion in design is called </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">deconstruction</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">. This is an effort by designers to destroy and then re-assemble fashion forms in new way, intending to break existing associations and meanings. Below Maison Martin Margiela.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPMAyGNiwizbMX6Vy_OXwHaJZpz9Tt7R8FgDdRQuAckov3kI-jjm8RYvD7Zu1-nD9e6nIaqWeMe_zRFklppgzczVAxZBNTG_Y-h_m5_QczS69DfQuif529S6Mr1-D_LVtlc8yo-xC9geU/s1600/20.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPMAyGNiwizbMX6Vy_OXwHaJZpz9Tt7R8FgDdRQuAckov3kI-jjm8RYvD7Zu1-nD9e6nIaqWeMe_zRFklppgzczVAxZBNTG_Y-h_m5_QczS69DfQuif529S6Mr1-D_LVtlc8yo-xC9geU/s400/20.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588939458034025058" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 276px; height: 400px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcFg4rLb8d2Z-g-QuWkcejlqVF7DhXPGarFU6A0ZiXT6T9bdiynfv4uOumQ-NUu_zXUKmdMsWF0BwYTpYbk1Uu2x0jOyemqAJH2KE0_32UeYoOqb0uvw5ON8PD-uxBf1L7ufnPEyZZclw/s1600/21.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcFg4rLb8d2Z-g-QuWkcejlqVF7DhXPGarFU6A0ZiXT6T9bdiynfv4uOumQ-NUu_zXUKmdMsWF0BwYTpYbk1Uu2x0jOyemqAJH2KE0_32UeYoOqb0uvw5ON8PD-uxBf1L7ufnPEyZZclw/s400/21.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588939450603538930" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 197px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Deconstruction is a philosophical principle from</span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> Jacques Derrida</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> in the 1980's which means to break through structures of meaning. We engage in language for example through a set of rules. Above left tennis requires the ball within parameters to win, but deconstruction frees meaning from structure toward something like the freedom of a beach ball. Below the ads by HSBC reveal society has been undergoing a deconstruction of formal meaning in fashion.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQWZl9TVklEwdeAJNlYhpSZexnBoFGRCNktl1v7GjKOXtZXnEZ0-PzDUL3GC-nlgPJ7ToeaFQ3g5qsJ7Kw2S5fzXVLtwKF0hlNNZ-OQPz73SvvgHBjlveAfgI7ML9bLktsSRVoW5l0FmM/s1600/22.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQWZl9TVklEwdeAJNlYhpSZexnBoFGRCNktl1v7GjKOXtZXnEZ0-PzDUL3GC-nlgPJ7ToeaFQ3g5qsJ7Kw2S5fzXVLtwKF0hlNNZ-OQPz73SvvgHBjlveAfgI7ML9bLktsSRVoW5l0FmM/s400/22.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588939443815032354" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 129px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJg7PquHTPcsrHHZejSloQ7iGFdon1nE7hr_StCgkK66CzzpM5-eTU_wKrKgAZfxnkBvvGoFiy2HA7pc5PmzAuzuq0PN2Qb_ywDwy7aYbY7G3rCNWUN6EdWKjDX84la-6Z7Sn_Y7qRt_o/s1600/23.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJg7PquHTPcsrHHZejSloQ7iGFdon1nE7hr_StCgkK66CzzpM5-eTU_wKrKgAZfxnkBvvGoFiy2HA7pc5PmzAuzuq0PN2Qb_ywDwy7aYbY7G3rCNWUN6EdWKjDX84la-6Z7Sn_Y7qRt_o/s400/23.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588939440277174674" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 265px; height: 400px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above Bernard Wilhelm's casual tuxedo breaks our conventional separations of formal and causal. Below Martin Margiela's combination of forms break our normal associations.<br /></span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRKSjoT_FZU8_lmJvHrsRsF8oI72Zk8XihonPWGc7-kYo0cPSBs2OAcTz6oZMmFIFzICbpE83s-Xj2xps4oaB42Na77Js1ZNHjwDa2NjDuFGFQqVKWEP88vgGUqO8FuND-NgzAxevEG3k/s1600/24.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRKSjoT_FZU8_lmJvHrsRsF8oI72Zk8XihonPWGc7-kYo0cPSBs2OAcTz6oZMmFIFzICbpE83s-Xj2xps4oaB42Na77Js1ZNHjwDa2NjDuFGFQqVKWEP88vgGUqO8FuND-NgzAxevEG3k/s400/24.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588938830941670050" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 387px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgozuCDkoCAXqGVJIs79muUwQRgYWs8LuD6Okz5n-m9u4-F9ZizILdZGhQVwwtKqlB1Pffc35JjVf0SQL-tyfH0j1XGf0tBumUFhseUWY7W_PZA5DOQOayKbFqTk1mekRoAHqv5JfP0FWw/s1600/25.jpeg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgozuCDkoCAXqGVJIs79muUwQRgYWs8LuD6Okz5n-m9u4-F9ZizILdZGhQVwwtKqlB1Pffc35JjVf0SQL-tyfH0j1XGf0tBumUFhseUWY7W_PZA5DOQOayKbFqTk1mekRoAHqv5JfP0FWw/s400/25.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588938823944525986" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 362px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above the Antwerp 6 designers deconstructed every aspect of fashion from their advertisements of shows, to the presentation of clothing, using masks and unveiling backstage.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSg_GVGUF2ZeZ0IWHclciWxIBweu0Wgvi1yrQ_8X3xRgOVv_Cxey8Mlw7_Mnvd3VqGf7hfp0NbL5_T1lpiCtHxfTMItPEJyTR0c8KZiUp5uvxvRXuROv58yswgvu9frQtx_dvmDt7YZwk/s1600/26.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSg_GVGUF2ZeZ0IWHclciWxIBweu0Wgvi1yrQ_8X3xRgOVv_Cxey8Mlw7_Mnvd3VqGf7hfp0NbL5_T1lpiCtHxfTMItPEJyTR0c8KZiUp5uvxvRXuROv58yswgvu9frQtx_dvmDt7YZwk/s400/26.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588938819270719330" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 207px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuyRHctdRlg9OZtuBM5-2bNmm7WF-Dk_64DxAaN5c-5m4J9H8Rho1no9OWIXAH2wNbguJ_ahpRIglYyW9Zp6djnth6118jFqEbt2De5Qfgy7MY00GTSUub29NZWQHUY9xVXqYWQRQkgyM/s1600/27.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuyRHctdRlg9OZtuBM5-2bNmm7WF-Dk_64DxAaN5c-5m4J9H8Rho1no9OWIXAH2wNbguJ_ahpRIglYyW9Zp6djnth6118jFqEbt2De5Qfgy7MY00GTSUub29NZWQHUY9xVXqYWQRQkgyM/s400/27.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588938813423304002" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 273px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above France sees </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">counterfeiting</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> as a crime for the producer and consumer. Below counterfeiting is seen as an opposition to the value of fashion goods and the power structures that keep fashion going as a business.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD34D-5fol-mVqvFcJWEbBsr8DnoDDpKONl1DkNs4p-tUFjW-nQvslbFsoAxa0NQ-LqvIHArslJPjY0O6x7bkpTXS1kqWdpEpp_4YMFG9l9MCqbY5tm1FHfvl0pE8iL3zJfy_I1rmmLWg/s400/customes.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589109090730241906" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 269px; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; " /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEol9mBQI4g6RI9dxNywt2rOm8trk7fV9GyXtLqKDnWiYIqQDVRDQAO9To0HlSece7-y5PqmkKK-HsxsG-p3J_ZU4rE6ylmkRrD0j3jDJKztvdhV1ITFta9XxiLtzT_47yichZCrnpr7Y/s1600/28.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Below counterfeiting is also oppositional to many ethics as it is tied to worker oppression and child exploitation. Below a campaign by UNICEF to expose the crimes.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEol9mBQI4g6RI9dxNywt2rOm8trk7fV9GyXtLqKDnWiYIqQDVRDQAO9To0HlSece7-y5PqmkKK-HsxsG-p3J_ZU4rE6ylmkRrD0j3jDJKztvdhV1ITFta9XxiLtzT_47yichZCrnpr7Y/s1600/28.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEol9mBQI4g6RI9dxNywt2rOm8trk7fV9GyXtLqKDnWiYIqQDVRDQAO9To0HlSece7-y5PqmkKK-HsxsG-p3J_ZU4rE6ylmkRrD0j3jDJKztvdhV1ITFta9XxiLtzT_47yichZCrnpr7Y/s400/28.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5588938811834029618" style="text-align: left;display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 258px; " /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><br /></span></div></div></div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-38572175152352906032011-03-29T07:43:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.864-07:00Nudity & Power in Fashion Editorialsby Bianca Murillo<br /><br /> �What I find interesting is working in a society with certain taboos - and fashion photography is about that kind of society. To have taboos, then to get around them - that's interesting� said controversial fashion photographer Helmut Newton (Benfey). Nudity in fashion editorials is often a point of controversy because it does just that�attempts to traverse social taboos resulting in an interesting set of power dynamics to explore. Nudity in fashion images possesses power in that its use captures attention by contesting norms and serving as a platform for social critique. Through breaking from the ordinary the use of nudity asserts a quality of rank and control rendering the images powerful.<br /><br /> <a href="http://artnectar.com/2010/04/photography-helmut-newton/">Helmut Newton's photography </a>established a particular style using nudity and strong women marked by erotic and fetishtic scences, blurring the line between art and pornography. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU3KN-uMIgsFeVcUFq1BKbm7qCoBE75ee2D5qfjYKAyMYaGbLrjJNRRUAQMocGtlheDFIniZ6d1hsdMYt0bwzEG1gIhH_K4lUXh5DoZY-AjIYf0548VN7g3ImFW2srfKgu9g2ND9ZRmfo/s1600/nPoV_057_Newton_Sylvia.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 312px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU3KN-uMIgsFeVcUFq1BKbm7qCoBE75ee2D5qfjYKAyMYaGbLrjJNRRUAQMocGtlheDFIniZ6d1hsdMYt0bwzEG1gIhH_K4lUXh5DoZY-AjIYf0548VN7g3ImFW2srfKgu9g2ND9ZRmfo/s320/nPoV_057_Newton_Sylvia.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589515960807666690" /></a><br /> Newton's influence today is embodied in <em>Vogue Paris'</em> Nov 2009 spread <a href="http://fashionindie.com/eniko-mihalik-romances-the-mannequin-fashion/">"L'eternal fantasme"</a> pictured below.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis-VGP99h8WQxhK8RLbxjkWPxKVDofPveEc3pKZ8fBzIXf5vocpP8jgljOjqaS3fdHxIr3IWx7AWmYvMC1VZ9QuRnSyVQlZuhN7qQMs-D4rzXRSMR4_ZZZsT3jzSuvl-97u26hF8I66jg/s1600/eternal-fantasy-1vogue.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis-VGP99h8WQxhK8RLbxjkWPxKVDofPveEc3pKZ8fBzIXf5vocpP8jgljOjqaS3fdHxIr3IWx7AWmYvMC1VZ9QuRnSyVQlZuhN7qQMs-D4rzXRSMR4_ZZZsT3jzSuvl-97u26hF8I66jg/s320/eternal-fantasy-1vogue.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589515045311392386" /></a><br /> Steven Meisel is a more contemporary American photorapher who is very similar to Newton. Meisel toys with the fashion industry and it's contentions through his photographs. Steven Meisel shot a controversial spread for <em>W</em> magazine in Oct 2004 cleverly titled, <a href="http://avantgarde.blogsome.com/2006/04/24/asexual-revolution-by-steven-meisel">"Asexual Revolution", </a>toying with gender roles, nudity and sex. A photo from this spread can be seen below. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO5WRIW6D3111zauN5iaGnGHzDVWIgo_ZV4B-W-zkMtkEgzUDDIarYyKaEQdJd-pPMJyotOjO7XfoIK4BlbVXHdmdamBsRlO0vQHgqMhJDrGOCOFAQEs-25QNh1Z2cvYE0pt5Vpjyir0o/s1600/asexxual.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 212px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO5WRIW6D3111zauN5iaGnGHzDVWIgo_ZV4B-W-zkMtkEgzUDDIarYyKaEQdJd-pPMJyotOjO7XfoIK4BlbVXHdmdamBsRlO0vQHgqMhJDrGOCOFAQEs-25QNh1Z2cvYE0pt5Vpjyir0o/s320/asexxual.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589515586889557522" /></a><br /> Sexuality and nudity works to add power to fashion images in that the nature of the industry is ultimately one of seduction. This nature of seduction results in fashion coming second when there is such little clothing as in these photos. This images are successful because <a href="http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2003/06/030613075252.htm">studies have shown </a>that women find nude and sensual iamges of women more sensual that those of men. (wwww.sciencedaily.com). This duality of the nature of the industry and what captures attention is what renders nudity in fashion images powerful.<br /><br /> Fashion photographers such as Helmut Newton and Steven Meisel, among others, break away from norms in fashion photography in terms of sexuality, nudity, casting and general style. It is this break from the mainstream aesthetic, an upset of the rhythm, which attracts attention. At the point of an alternate aesthetic that challenges normative conceptions, fashion comes secondary to the sex and seductive nature of the image. This concept works as a result of women being drawn to natural, raw images and finding sensuality in these images. These breaks from normative aesthetics and values ultimately empower the image, its components and its effects.Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-81868490135395786702011-03-28T21:57:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.868-07:00Case Study: Paris Store Windows and the Power of DisplayBy Sydney Kipen<div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span">As a complex and integral part of the modern world, fashion plays an influential role in society, portraying one�s position, both privately and publically. The store window serves to demonstrate the function of fashion to the public in a manner recreating certain idealized views of society. The different types of sto</span><span class="Apple-style-span">res that exist in our consumer-based society each display different extents of power in their windows, and either retain that power to communicate their message, or give the power to their audience to interpret. Thus it is important to determine who has the power in the outlet of display: the window or the audience? </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><meta charset="utf-8"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 16px; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAXfnLqc4CkmmqtkeLV9NQ-PDqhfLpQm6_YjaDbxUmGcwkObEhWJvQ7N5HqrYSCoVWf-c8RV7YQ1R1u9iNnswl5msFJ1tnbqbTagvvlZOmZrwbGn3rc7xhU7T3uANjzPvZYQ4dXjDySjQ/s320/chanel1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589362417981979458" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 288px; height: 216px; " /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span">Chanel window at 31 Rue Cambon</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><meta charset="utf-8"><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span">In examination of the store window in Paris, the capital of fashion, the difference in the power of display between a department store window, a luxury store window, and a democratized store window is juxtaposed with their respective and distinct audiences. Although the window controls the power of perception and appearance, it must appeal to the power of its audience and their ability to interpret the window. While the goal of a store window display is to illustrate the vision of the designer, it is heavily influenced by the need to cater to the consumer.</span><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQkb-7_ZCYINWjYapPORxNtK2Tp-enqWUS7X7CiA2Cp83Se80RdSJPYQzAeCg30BraIxkzUuZZQA9nd5QYPmJ9ob8xixQJ-cuDSZqd8nY0FmuC5MpLIDxeEiI5F9q4gqlpxG0HUykap0c/s1600/IMG_0373.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQkb-7_ZCYINWjYapPORxNtK2Tp-enqWUS7X7CiA2Cp83Se80RdSJPYQzAeCg30BraIxkzUuZZQA9nd5QYPmJ9ob8xixQJ-cuDSZqd8nY0FmuC5MpLIDxeEiI5F9q4gqlpxG0HUykap0c/s320/IMG_0373.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589379319201393234" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtGoW6nJc6uHZRmxSUO9AwuZcg_HtkmF1jCKrLiqmYmxpKdkUOZNhy-FRq2UH5Hwn0UQD3aSUxeFv4ipQnxrjh4NtoBjSHqRMRyovnINYFoNwjMWH8SW-G4DiKtpzwzqzHEEKOG4jk68M/s1600/IMG_0308.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtGoW6nJc6uHZRmxSUO9AwuZcg_HtkmF1jCKrLiqmYmxpKdkUOZNhy-FRq2UH5Hwn0UQD3aSUxeFv4ipQnxrjh4NtoBjSHqRMRyovnINYFoNwjMWH8SW-G4DiKtpzwzqzHEEKOG4jk68M/s320/IMG_0308.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589379315616453554" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAUo0ABHJXBQIBK1P0vLc0H4zOF-ZpFDIGXNiaZLqklbqGLLzXtjk68m9aOzny8ES5gucIJk2yAxt1cUc56beL10nwwBGnzDbBzqJdVAgx3pAiK4nSIX7M5DMYZMqNaU854yzAe6u7sUw/s1600/lanvinprintemps01.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAUo0ABHJXBQIBK1P0vLc0H4zOF-ZpFDIGXNiaZLqklbqGLLzXtjk68m9aOzny8ES5gucIJk2yAxt1cUc56beL10nwwBGnzDbBzqJdVAgx3pAiK4nSIX7M5DMYZMqNaU854yzAe6u7sUw/s320/lanvinprintemps01.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589379312502435026" /></a></span></span></div></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span">The store window display emerged as a major facet of the culture of consumption in the late 1880s, originating along with the department store. According to William Leach, �windows of city retail stores�revealed to [women] an unobtainable world of luxury� (320). They were meant to initiate a desire within the consumer, and depict an affluent lifestyle that people should strive to achieve, although likely will never quite reach. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span">Visit Lanvin and their documentation of their window display at: http://www.lanvin.com/#/en/lanvin-today/windows<br /><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"> The presentation of goods or �mise-en-scene� was meant to �seduce� the public and motivate them to buy (Laermans, 92). The power of design and display was in the hands of the store window creator, but the success of the display depended entirely on the audience. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiguaezSrD-Nwl2wV4vMXrDNPeTjTdYfrtLwUs6bFurPg3MX90p-RH5LNxCEm0FenTddNOyCKVHfPqR4fNSu0-lTEE6BooiGgHQppNnpU1uLHih_ib-VUaojF0yjMUtAfGOrh4PSTc3LM0/s1600/IMG_0220.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiguaezSrD-Nwl2wV4vMXrDNPeTjTdYfrtLwUs6bFurPg3MX90p-RH5LNxCEm0FenTddNOyCKVHfPqR4fNSu0-lTEE6BooiGgHQppNnpU1uLHih_ib-VUaojF0yjMUtAfGOrh4PSTc3LM0/s320/IMG_0220.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589373384284542722" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">John Galliano</span></div></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span">The Parisian department store today has huge, elaborate, extravagant, ornate windows that seem to emulate the same goals and ideas as they did when they were originated and popularized. The luxury store does much the same, but in a simpler manner with a single theme and story illustrated repeatedly. The democratized store conveys a story, yet it attempts to make it a more accessible, relatable theme that its audience can connect to and even rely upon. It is not elaborate or excessive or over-the-top, but fun, practical, and easy-going. However, in the modern consumer society, the domain of power in the fashion window has been transferred from that of the store and its window, to that of the consumer and their interpretation. Jean Baudrillard tells us that today, �every principle of identity is affected by fashion.� Thus interpreting the store windows is based upon one�s personal identity and where they see themselves in relation to the window (463).</span></div><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2B9BXvAkyNXlU0IrqpdjC8591w8mKZzHX1TLFDuUwY-eIxBE6EHl-0GFzBt6I2Lb7qmPod9w6_P71WyAiXzCkIzYc84_QJefGgTw4vtpvuIiU7Q6xo4OUiiaay3a-vtr5qaodBvhvARE/s1600/IMG_0348.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="text-align: left;display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2B9BXvAkyNXlU0IrqpdjC8591w8mKZzHX1TLFDuUwY-eIxBE6EHl-0GFzBt6I2Lb7qmPod9w6_P71WyAiXzCkIzYc84_QJefGgTw4vtpvuIiU7Q6xo4OUiiaay3a-vtr5qaodBvhvARE/s320/IMG_0348.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589373879991906210" /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "></span></a><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2B9BXvAkyNXlU0IrqpdjC8591w8mKZzHX1TLFDuUwY-eIxBE6EHl-0GFzBt6I2Lb7qmPod9w6_P71WyAiXzCkIzYc84_QJefGgTw4vtpvuIiU7Q6xo4OUiiaay3a-vtr5qaodBvhvARE/s1600/IMG_0348.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 16px; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "></span></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2B9BXvAkyNXlU0IrqpdjC8591w8mKZzHX1TLFDuUwY-eIxBE6EHl-0GFzBt6I2Lb7qmPod9w6_P71WyAiXzCkIzYc84_QJefGgTw4vtpvuIiU7Q6xo4OUiiaay3a-vtr5qaodBvhvARE/s1600/IMG_0348.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; ">Chanel</span></a></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyITp_R7H9r6GDgWYioXKROOkdjcDH4Lv0lVmKt5Y6yQMfpRfPavGCGZNeEFXlxsk9y7tYuWWGRTvVNJmA68h6QnLxk18Fb55NSTKK0F9vt55CPunrQh8S4987uBPAJ1p9NsE_RzGpB8w/s1600/IMG_0293.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyITp_R7H9r6GDgWYioXKROOkdjcDH4Lv0lVmKt5Y6yQMfpRfPavGCGZNeEFXlxsk9y7tYuWWGRTvVNJmA68h6QnLxk18Fb55NSTKK0F9vt55CPunrQh8S4987uBPAJ1p9NsE_RzGpB8w/s320/IMG_0293.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589375318848355474" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Gucci</span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ZJNxSj2-1HeWLm5gWcD90Pgk4H7AdvY2EKMkLSrdg7nGk955nv9TWJqx5iqZs7r326yqmukNQ6R8VQatS4U-G4LkTSWj0McYYHu1sPemVAVGuKWAmMHqmTt4joo-u33WpXxfoTjfm_U/s1600/IMG_3073.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ZJNxSj2-1HeWLm5gWcD90Pgk4H7AdvY2EKMkLSrdg7nGk955nv9TWJqx5iqZs7r326yqmukNQ6R8VQatS4U-G4LkTSWj0McYYHu1sPemVAVGuKWAmMHqmTt4joo-u33WpXxfoTjfm_U/s320/IMG_3073.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589375905272548802" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Christian Louboutin</span></div></div><span class="Apple-style-span"></span>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-10499143469362758892011-03-28T15:38:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.874-07:00The Ethics of Counterfeiting in the Fashion Industry: Quality, Credence and Profit Issues by Brian Hilton, Chong Ju Choi, and Stephen Chen<div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Chelsea Turner</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br />The Ethics of Counterfeiting in the Fashion Industry: Quality, Credence and Profit Issues by Brian Hilton, Chong Ju Choi, and Stephen Chen focuses on great problem in the fashion industry: the issue of counterfeiting and the ethical issues that are raised by it. The authors delve into the issue that the problem may lie in the industry itself, meaning that it is the fashion houses that may need to change in order to solve the issue. According to the International Chamber of Commerce, seven percent of world trade is in counterfeit goods, and that the counterfeit market is worth $350 billion. Part of this is due to the difficulty that exists in enforcing the few laws that do exist against counterfeiting, and sadly most cases of counterfeiting are rarely prosecuted<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiA2nrpcG04oKsXIoP9Iv5vwT0bZc_Q1do3jSnaQIDfBAVRQ-j1W3qainkLShiba_sZVSPqxEEEweH2_2-RTVmFedLboPVByBTGYgh6gCLM9fRvXhY16XZQYgzKXuZnk3hcWNCmPC26Xip/s1600/counterfeit_fashion_jpg.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a></span></span></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiA2nrpcG04oKsXIoP9Iv5vwT0bZc_Q1do3jSnaQIDfBAVRQ-j1W3qainkLShiba_sZVSPqxEEEweH2_2-RTVmFedLboPVByBTGYgh6gCLM9fRvXhY16XZQYgzKXuZnk3hcWNCmPC26Xip/s1600/counterfeit_fashion_jpg.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiA2nrpcG04oKsXIoP9Iv5vwT0bZc_Q1do3jSnaQIDfBAVRQ-j1W3qainkLShiba_sZVSPqxEEEweH2_2-RTVmFedLboPVByBTGYgh6gCLM9fRvXhY16XZQYgzKXuZnk3hcWNCmPC26Xip/s320/counterfeit_fashion_jpg.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589207777592527922" style="text-align: left;display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 250px; height: 317px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGpB8LPE73AkK1KnJ0Gpis9mH16i53Ddjcb3X2A8YH74APKcGd0TXjM7VH3ur2ko73RTD-fbI42Gg27hftePtN_oe75N28NCDOLCbv7KyRk4ygvxEZNCSDRBMPM1QMda3bKi48LSDZQXQY/s1600/faskes-are-never-in-fashion.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGpB8LPE73AkK1KnJ0Gpis9mH16i53Ddjcb3X2A8YH74APKcGd0TXjM7VH3ur2ko73RTD-fbI42Gg27hftePtN_oe75N28NCDOLCbv7KyRk4ygvxEZNCSDRBMPM1QMda3bKi48LSDZQXQY/s320/faskes-are-never-in-fashion.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589207919409515522" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 225px; height: 231px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br />Fashion, specifically high-end clothing and accessories, is one of the most highly publicized sectors of counterfeiting. There are different types of goods that can be counterfeited. The concept of �credence goods� is goods �whose quality is difficult to assess before or after purchase and use.� Credence goods are what are most copied because their value can only be determined by the credence or faith given to them by others, therefore they are easily exploitable. These items are usually of medium quality that has a high-perceived value, which can be easily copied.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br />The ethical issues, which come out of the issue of counterfeiting, can be put into four categories: Utilitarianism, Distributive Justice, The Moral Rights of Man, and Ethical Relativism. The utilitarian argument is the most used in the fashion industry because it points to the fact that �intellectual property needs to be protected in order to provide sufficient incentive to develop new technology and creative products.�<br /><br />Actual counterfeit items can be divided into four categories: Vanity Fakes which are low perceived value products, Overruns or copies made from left over material, Condoned Copies made by other designers of fashion houses, and Copies made by the fashion houses themselves.<br />An interesting argument protecting the counterfeiter themselves is that much of this counterfeiting is done in countries in economic peril, and perhaps the counterfeiter has a right to make a living whatever way they can. Then what is questioned is whose moral right is more important, the designer or the counterfeiter.<br />The fact is that the high-end fashion goods that are being copied are unattainable for the majority of the world. But does that make it right? The counterfeits may hurt these high-end brands by disassociating their genuine products from the mass of the cheap copies, which look like them.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglHVLQLp9qWoqA5xtshIfDtijbyxGv8Ik1uXiyW1iUP9AeblWNRO5H_I6z58tua6x6l6zkSL6Z38SMnnvGheaOFMZy9JbuwIg03dFyDvjStBWqwxoeTsDHKfn7NixAkCqPChr7Gic_N8Vt/s1600/real_versus_fake_louis_vuitton_bags.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglHVLQLp9qWoqA5xtshIfDtijbyxGv8Ik1uXiyW1iUP9AeblWNRO5H_I6z58tua6x6l6zkSL6Z38SMnnvGheaOFMZy9JbuwIg03dFyDvjStBWqwxoeTsDHKfn7NixAkCqPChr7Gic_N8Vt/s320/real_versus_fake_louis_vuitton_bags.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589208142002124642" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 177px; " /></a><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqe6ZHsAlTCUih1ZZw6XN8emUQ8NJWVhk7A4BJaG9L1STIvvPAO_ceF9gAmIoHPcH_mAJ1RULNZZYquafD2zIS_hlO6serct3O6TbsiOBjb6AUdIJKhYUDID9z46o0WRjJGqDkA8AYxSuc/s1600/2v01q2w.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqe6ZHsAlTCUih1ZZw6XN8emUQ8NJWVhk7A4BJaG9L1STIvvPAO_ceF9gAmIoHPcH_mAJ1RULNZZYquafD2zIS_hlO6serct3O6TbsiOBjb6AUdIJKhYUDID9z46o0WRjJGqDkA8AYxSuc/s320/2v01q2w.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589208351649083074" style="text-align: left; display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 252px; " /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqe6ZHsAlTCUih1ZZw6XN8emUQ8NJWVhk7A4BJaG9L1STIvvPAO_ceF9gAmIoHPcH_mAJ1RULNZZYquafD2zIS_hlO6serct3O6TbsiOBjb6AUdIJKhYUDID9z46o0WRjJGqDkA8AYxSuc/s1600/2v01q2w.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqe6ZHsAlTCUih1ZZw6XN8emUQ8NJWVhk7A4BJaG9L1STIvvPAO_ceF9gAmIoHPcH_mAJ1RULNZZYquafD2zIS_hlO6serct3O6TbsiOBjb6AUdIJKhYUDID9z46o0WRjJGqDkA8AYxSuc/s1600/2v01q2w.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqe6ZHsAlTCUih1ZZw6XN8emUQ8NJWVhk7A4BJaG9L1STIvvPAO_ceF9gAmIoHPcH_mAJ1RULNZZYquafD2zIS_hlO6serct3O6TbsiOBjb6AUdIJKhYUDID9z46o0WRjJGqDkA8AYxSuc/s1600/2v01q2w.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a></div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-9854583976580951522011-03-28T15:00:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.880-07:00"The Islamic Factor" by Nicholas Coleridge<div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><u><br /></u></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">by Zo-Ee Chee</div> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent:.5in"><span lang="EN-GB">�The Islamic Factor� is a chapter from the 1988 book entitled �<i style="mso-bidi-font-style:normal">The Fashion Conspiracy� </i>which reveals some of the fashion industry�s most provocative secrets. The author, Nicholas Coleridge, is the Managing Director of Cond</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri;mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-latin">�</span><span lang="EN-GB"> Nast (Vogue, GQ, Glamour etc.) in Britain and oversees the publishing company�s branches in Paris and Mumbai. He has also been a chairman of the PPA (the Magazine Publishers Association) and of the British Fashion Council. Needless to say, Coleridge is an authority on the inner workings of the fashion world.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent:.5in"><span lang="EN-GB">Published just before the Gulf War (1991), the chapter details the importance of the Middle East as a source of income for couturiers and the relationship that the fashion industry has with clients from the Gulf as both an empowering and undermining force. As a largely informative approach, �The Islamic Factor� describes the somewhat contradictory nature of Middle Eastern taste for couture due to the heavy censorship and the desire for a modest appearance as required by Islam (supported by the censorship of Vogue magazine by The Committee for the Propagation of Virtue and the Supp</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent:.5in"><span lang="EN-GB">ression of Vice). Many of the richer families from the Gulf buy heavily from designer and luxury brands, preferring certain makes including Nina Ricci, the now defunct Jean-Louis Scherrer, Ungaro, Givenchy and Calvin Klein though their choice in designers seem to be relatively arbitrary. Their purchasing power is even enough to account for 11% of the fashion industry with Kuwait being at the top of the list (as of 1988). This does not take into account the mobile nature of Middle Eastern buyers who do much of their shopping abroad. The facts therefore point towards Middle Eastern buyers being more economically powerful than their initial cultural and religious contexts might indicate.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;text-indent: 0.5in; "><span lang="EN-GB"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Dom3qp_P6W-PDNKms1AH5nuibxHmXkLuqmOZiY6mCGav4swXBaUkGOnOJkTI6_t1SPssohsVJQUvIfB7vr5roRACTqx3hxfTl0qEDa4eX0cKQtH1BXE8mO7zAyEVt12fNZDY84k-Fng/s1600/gisele-bundchen-hm-spring-summer-2011-photoshop-censored.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Dom3qp_P6W-PDNKms1AH5nuibxHmXkLuqmOZiY6mCGav4swXBaUkGOnOJkTI6_t1SPssohsVJQUvIfB7vr5roRACTqx3hxfTl0qEDa4eX0cKQtH1BXE8mO7zAyEVt12fNZDY84k-Fng/s320/gisele-bundchen-hm-spring-summer-2011-photoshop-censored.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589260382345311074" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 267px; " /></a></span></p><div><br /></div> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;text-indent: 0.5in; ">H&M campaign censored for the Middle East.</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent:.5in"><span lang="EN-GB">Despite their economic importance in the fashion industry, Middle Eastern buyer</span>s are often go unmentioned as clients of fashion houses and are instead considered gaudy and tasteless due to their perceived lack of prestige (and by extension, a lack of power). This seems an unfair trade-off in reputation as many couture houses in the 1980s, overwhelmed by debt (due to the recession caused by OPEC oil embargoes), specifically catered and designed for Middle Eastern customers through the use of heavy beading, fur as well as exquisite craftsmanship which was is seen as a sign of wealth. This shows that the economic power of the Gulf actually subverts the aesthetic style of fashion as couturiers designed clothes to appeal to them thus forfeiting some of their own design principals.</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;text-indent: 0.5in; "><span lang="EN-GB"><a href="http://www.zuhairmurad.com/">http://www.zuhairmurad.com/</a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;text-indent: 0.5in; ">Example of Middle Eastern taste: designer Zuhair Murad from Beirut, Lebanon</p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent:.5in"><span lang="EN-GB">Despite the economic power that the Middle Easterners possess in the fashion industry, they are still a living contradiction with their desire for luxury goods and the demands that Muslim women should be modest in appearance (consider the to the plunging necklines and bare backs of some designer dresses). Although these clothes are often covered by a burqa, there exists a communal culture of �video-teas� where the women gather at the home of one of the women and watch videos, sans burqa. This therefore reveals the use of designer clothes as a method of impressing other women (much like the �vicarious consumers� as discussed in Thorstein Veblen�s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style:normal">�Conspicuous Consumption</i>�). There is a limit to the spending, however, with husbands or male relatives imposing restrictions.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent:.5in"><span lang="EN-GB"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdaVo7AHaeutk5BDA742idAAcx-ubbK3RfoZx3KApXZfntqEunPQlmM8uLeObjzLEQ9T4BDH5vocHoqYf9CQGqTwNjbFXfksGhi9Lq4-kz7VJ7gLPYbGoJ-gQTSCeBqOgKdxgDE-ALZE/s1600/repressedwomen.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdaVo7AHaeutk5BDA742idAAcx-ubbK3RfoZx3KApXZfntqEunPQlmM8uLeObjzLEQ9T4BDH5vocHoqYf9CQGqTwNjbFXfksGhi9Lq4-kz7VJ7gLPYbGoJ-gQTSCeBqOgKdxgDE-ALZE/s320/repressedwomen.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589258538590614786" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 194px; height: 320px; " /></a></span></p><div><br /></div> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent:.5in"><span lang="EN-GB">In conclusion, this text presents various aspects of the tug of war between power, money and religion. On one front, it considers the Gulf�s economic power and ability to sway the direction of fashion. On the other hand, it is simultaneously powerless because of its lack of prestige. Although the editor�s note indicates that, as of 2006, the Middle East accounts for 40% of haute couture purchases, the �Islamic Factor� also presents the interesting dialectic (though less prominently than the former point) of what is perceived as female powerlessness because of the restrictive burqa and the freedom Muslim women in the Middle East have in their ability to purchase incredibly expensive clothes to their hearts� desires. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent:.5in"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS9hF1FKxKdAdToSSoQSm6OS3ifHUUhUGVzTUUWOutkJT4d0hATmG63SCw7XBLarshGKgsquditpdnWjOvKgZEG0IZSh8nld0TbQ1kgiXJtLO6x0bdqVLkpSw-85uWTUIfQBeMICehZJo/s1600/saudi_shopping_mall_burqa_women_islam.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS9hF1FKxKdAdToSSoQSm6OS3ifHUUhUGVzTUUWOutkJT4d0hATmG63SCw7XBLarshGKgsquditpdnWjOvKgZEG0IZSh8nld0TbQ1kgiXJtLO6x0bdqVLkpSw-85uWTUIfQBeMICehZJo/s320/saudi_shopping_mall_burqa_women_islam.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589259227001431138" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 241px; " /></a></p><div><br /></div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-64748956225696153852011-03-28T13:14:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.885-07:00Case Study: Patrick Demarchelier and His Power to Defy the Dominant Hegemony of the Fashion Photograph<div><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in; line-height: 150%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> <!--StartFragment--> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">By Elleree Erdos</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">French fashion photographer Patrick Demarchelier has revolutionized fashion photography with his truthful approach to the photograph; by maintaining ties with the tradition of his medium, truth to the apparatus of vision and spontaneity, and continuous engagement with portraits as exposure to emotion, Demarchelier has become an ambassador of truth in the field of fashion photography. His force in the fashion world is in his ability to make this truth acceptable in a field immersed in illusion, introducing his own hegemonic principle of the fashion photograph and implementing it to its full effect. Demarchelier legitimizes his practice and overturns the dominant hegemony of falsity in the fashion photograph by maintaining consistency in both his photographic and his personal, �celebrity� image.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Click <a href="http://demarchelier.net/ad/reel.html">here</a> to view Patrick Demarchelier's commercial reel.<br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;font-size:small;" >Demarchelier worked at the same time as avant-garde photographers such as Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin, who photographed in a style that fed the increasingly sexualized nature of photography taking shape in the 1960s (Harrison). He joined forces with a group of photographers that became known as the Paris Mafia, who �reacted against the decadence or self-conscious seriousness of their contemporaries in favor of fashion photographs which were upbeat, informal, and with the spontaneity of a snapshot� (Harrison). In a 2008 interview for the London Telegraph, Demarchelier described the current society as �perfection-obsessed,� a comment consistent with his search for truth and emotion in all of his work, whether it is a portrait, an advertisement, or a fashion editorial (Walden). </span></p><p></p></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqBLWfIfGc_Y8cKJ1uhc3Feph8F3yyzz-bhqdKkyHuM-MS6PBGadPv8xp5hja3JAbIhFRWCzYReDNBh6v2MJPvf7_htyDU5jb8kYYoi2UhPDhZ1xOv5a44En0rYcwLi6tX6MNwg2RQtgc/s1600/newton.jpg"><img style="text-align: left; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 315px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqBLWfIfGc_Y8cKJ1uhc3Feph8F3yyzz-bhqdKkyHuM-MS6PBGadPv8xp5hja3JAbIhFRWCzYReDNBh6v2MJPvf7_htyDU5jb8kYYoi2UhPDhZ1xOv5a44En0rYcwLi6tX6MNwg2RQtgc/s320/newton.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589227844235023298" border="0" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Fashion photograph by Helmut Newton</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWTK6f1Itn5P6aKOAO_UggF6RamoChSzx2PRhUnyXjtIE6sU522NW8GjR6l0BxR7inUwrB35_Jo1YgYQDpmFXSMN_jEonEu6kozQ1dOiU1sGMuaCY-7Fs9fNz6ol11YxGJkcUR_5jpVVU/s1600/guy_bourdin.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWTK6f1Itn5P6aKOAO_UggF6RamoChSzx2PRhUnyXjtIE6sU522NW8GjR6l0BxR7inUwrB35_Jo1YgYQDpmFXSMN_jEonEu6kozQ1dOiU1sGMuaCY-7Fs9fNz6ol11YxGJkcUR_5jpVVU/s320/guy_bourdin.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589227841771640642" border="0" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Fashion photograph by Guy Bourdin</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"> <!--StartFragment--> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in; line-height: 150%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> <!--StartFragment--> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Fashion photography offers an exceptional venue for the realm of seeing that invites falsification and illusion in order to fabricate an inaccessible world for the consumer, who absorbs the photograph within the context of the cultural hegemony at play in his or her personal environment (Crane, 542). In spite of whatever ideology the viewer applies to the photograph, today�s fashion photographer institutes a method of illusion to engage the viewer.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Patrick Demarchelier, while remaining true to the nature of his chosen field, manages to maintain an element of reality in the entire image. He does so through what has been coined the �Demarchelier Touch��his interactions and gentle personality that puts the model at ease, eliciting positive human responses (Chazal). Paired with his technical skill, this quality allows Demarchelier to capture his models in their most vulnerable, truthful, spontaneous moments.</span> <span style=""> </span></p> <!--EndFragment--> <p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in; line-height: 150%;"><span style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidg3vo8Xk2vIRmBUD2J49hhHv49YwT-N1aTqR00-IgxvDn2aqNWg3O_ZfMA1CU4qLDJpHWzoyga4qJz93BjWb-1wfX43V074pWTQFRa-8D_lrbQhJv7a7Y90ZIVc-ot_sEnKBQO5zjtbU/s1600/diana2.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidg3vo8Xk2vIRmBUD2J49hhHv49YwT-N1aTqR00-IgxvDn2aqNWg3O_ZfMA1CU4qLDJpHWzoyga4qJz93BjWb-1wfX43V074pWTQFRa-8D_lrbQhJv7a7Y90ZIVc-ot_sEnKBQO5zjtbU/s320/diana2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589228775219762082" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 223px; height: 320px;" border="0" /></a></span></span></p><span style=""><div style="text-align: center; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Patrick Demarchelier, "Princess Diana," London 1990</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivNvrZTzzu6lTHXVH0WNZj3kLl6T977juRcpPbyCOjprPtVcTG4SpHHfCPDewq5JD9Z02Zh3bRfKBa1RTEtvxhdo0brIVfQ1TdAp0mcgZSmUvGlH0aLHmgLZ4RetL-nZg_LK5aursYICE/s1600/spread1.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivNvrZTzzu6lTHXVH0WNZj3kLl6T977juRcpPbyCOjprPtVcTG4SpHHfCPDewq5JD9Z02Zh3bRfKBa1RTEtvxhdo0brIVfQ1TdAp0mcgZSmUvGlH0aLHmgLZ4RetL-nZg_LK5aursYICE/s320/spread1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589228770944645122" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 243px; height: 320px;" border="0" /></a></span><div style="text-align: center; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Patrick Demarchelier, "Au Charme, etc." French Vogue Feb. 2005</span></div><div style="text-align: left; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"> <!--StartFragment--> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in; line-height: 150%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> <!--StartFragment--> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Philosopher Roland Barthes outlined three modes by which the fashion photograph operates within the context of the �world�as a theater� (Barnard, 517). The fashion photograph, says Barthes, can objectify, romanticize, or mock its contents. In all three instances, however, the dominating hegemony is that of falsification; everything within the photograph save for the garment itself is made outrageous or absurd, thus verifying the reality in the garment (518). Demarchelier finds the humanistic element in the illusion and grasps hold of it with his lens. Instead of placing the viewer on the exterior of a dream world he or she can only aspire to, he gives viewers an entry point by which to place themselves within whatever world he depicts. Furthermore, the continuity of Demarchelier�s public image with the traditional, effortless style of his photography reinforces his personal distance from pretension an ostentatious display.</span><o:p></o:p></p> <!--EndFragment--> </span><p></p></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4s-kEo5J4TWGecx934ut6-qciumIyJKTUBIhZZtMyDdeg21AHFw6qnYq2CXv-z0DDDk2dIb9ZJpcea1oZlp9UHDIGpLvxleBY0aDObnfO2dUKeXmIjnm42OMtS6RwOLqMSgnj7Cvobtc/s1600/spread2.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4s-kEo5J4TWGecx934ut6-qciumIyJKTUBIhZZtMyDdeg21AHFw6qnYq2CXv-z0DDDk2dIb9ZJpcea1oZlp9UHDIGpLvxleBY0aDObnfO2dUKeXmIjnm42OMtS6RwOLqMSgnj7Cvobtc/s320/spread2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589228759027447890" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 209px;" border="0" /></a></span><div style="text-align: center; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></div><div style="text-align: center; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Patrick Demarchelier, "D�mente Religieuse," French Vogue Sept. 2004</span></div><div style="text-align: center; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9p7MHRZS0JqFSvSgOzSauUvDMj8wgUYulYMRqSRf-9ji59NLnBMGuk4JHnBhSYIot0MAh-Yc2AJDy9vlVBCFSVsIPmm1gebN6-YG66WR3XVJtocoTYRtbzYr7-KftPLPu8i_7PFFXjJU/s1600/spread3.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9p7MHRZS0JqFSvSgOzSauUvDMj8wgUYulYMRqSRf-9ji59NLnBMGuk4JHnBhSYIot0MAh-Yc2AJDy9vlVBCFSVsIPmm1gebN6-YG66WR3XVJtocoTYRtbzYr7-KftPLPu8i_7PFFXjJU/s320/spread3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589228758163989090" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 218px;" border="0" /></a></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0.5in; line-height: 150%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Patrick Demarchelier, "A Fashion Fairy Tale," Vanity Fair Jan. 2005</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0.5in; line-height: 150%;"><span style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"></span></span></p><span style=""><div></div></span><br /><p></p> <!--EndFragment--> </span></div></div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-39104026320576169242011-03-28T13:11:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.890-07:00Alison Gill: Deconstruction FashionBy Nicolle D'Onofrio<br /><a href="http://thelemonspank.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/martin-margiela-08-11.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 307px;" src="http://thelemonspank.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/martin-margiela-08-11.jpg" alt="" border="0" /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: Arial, 'Lucida Grande', Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 20px; "></span></a><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.catwalkqueen.tv/2008/02/paris_fashion_w_16.html&usg=__a7D-Z4DybVBTByfOFLic9zuorzY=&h=437&w=430&sz=188&hl=fr&start=4&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=WVvnrI-9eD5IdM:&tbnh=126&tbnw=124&prev=/images%3Fq%3DMargiela%26um%3D1%26hl%3Dfr%26sa%3DN%26tbm%3Disch&ei=E_iQTeewD4fFtAbpyZ2XDw">Paris Fashion Week A/W 2008-9: Maison Martin Margiela</a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Context: </span>1998, Fashion Theory Textbook<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Author:</span> Alison Gill; Current lecturer of visual communication design at University of Sydney with a PHD in "Wearing Clothes".<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Approach:</span> Academic with a mix of Theoretical<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Point of View:</span> Deconstruction Fashion, which should not be defined as a negative critique of the fashion industry, serves to change the discourse of fashion away from its established, seemingly intrinsic, codes.<br /></div><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Terms:<br /><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Deconstructionism: </span></span></span>The "undoing" of fashion (see video examples) to create new pieces of "deconstructed" fashion.<br /><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Le Destroy</span></span>: Rebellion style of fashion Gill associates with deconstructionism. Facets of Le Destroy include anti-fashion, recession-zeitgeist, eco-fashion, and theoretical dress<br /><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Anti-Fashion</span></span>: Rebellious form of fashion used to negatively critique normalized fashion codes.<br /><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Zeitgeist: </span></span>literally "spirit of the times"<br /><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Ontology:</span></span> The branch of metaphysics used to deal with the nature of being<br /><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Margiela: </span></span>Fashion designer described by Gill as the first major deconstructionist designer of the 1980's<br /><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Derrida: </span></span>French Philosopher who created "deconstructionist theory" in the 1960's.<br /><br /><center><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/bMBqXwZbBRs" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="390" width="400"></iframe></center><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Summary:<br /></span>Alison Gill's "Deconstruction Fashion: the making of unfinished, decomposing and re-assembled clothes" describes the theory of deconstructionism as it relates to fashion. She begins with a history of the term "deconstruction," describing its original terminology as a philosophical theory used to critique language and codes. Deconstruction was then practiced by architects and graphic designers in the 1980's when <span style="font-weight: bold;">Martin Margiela </span>began designing deconstructionist fashion. Margiela would take apart the linings from vintage dresses and sell them with the darts, seams, and zipper entirely visible, rethinking the role of fashion to hide its magical construction to create a suitable garment.<br /><br />Gill then moves on to relation "deconstructionism" to "Le Destroy," describing the practices of anti-fashion (which has some deconstruction elements but is far to focused on negative critique of the industry), recession zeitgeist (which creates a political connection between the instability of eastern european ideologies and an instability of fashion codes), eco-fashion (which emphasizes the use of recycled/eroding materials to send a message for more environmentally friendly textiles), and theoretical fashion (most closely related to deconstructionist fashion in that it links philosophical ideologies to the practice of fashion). Gill claims that "deconstruction fashion liberates the garment from functionality by literally undoing," making the reader ponder exactly the what the functionality of fashion is.<br /><br />Gill then goes in depth on the term "deconstruction" and its named critique by creator Jacques Derrida. Derrida claims that deconstruction should not be linked to a negative critique (it is not to be called 'destruction') on society, or in this case the normalized fashion industry, but rather the introduction of a new discourse in the way we view the working of social codes. While this type of thinking may be related to <span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">post-modernism</span></span> Derrida is also skeptical to place this label on the term in fear that it creates a temporal confinement that is aligned with a movement rather than a new way of thinking and rethinking.<br /><br />Lastly, Gill discusses the effects of Media on deconstruction fashion. Gill warns that deconstruction should not be linked, as it has been, to style, but rather the sole mechanics of the creation, un-creation, and re-creation, of a garment. Gill proposes that this type of stripping down of clothing reveals certain truths about the fashion industry that change the way we look at fashion today.<br /><br /><center><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/V_HHa8T6xQo" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="390" width="400"></iframe></center><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Relevant?:</span></span> I believe these terms and style of thinking to be relevant today, especially in our claims that we live in a post-modern world. I think the reinvention of not only fashion trends, but the way in which we see and define fashion creates, in itself, an aspect of power over society in that it forces us to think and rethink our own normalized predispositions.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-8454247970020930682011-03-22T10:30:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.895-07:00The Power of Appearances<div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><div style="text-align: center; "><p style="margin-top: 0pt; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; text-align: left; direction: ltr; unicode-bidi: embed; word-break: normal; "><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">�If discourse must triumph over something, it is not over fantasies and hallucinations heavy with meaning and misinterpretation, but the shiny surface of non-sense and all the games that the latter renders possible.� </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Jean </span></span></b></span><span style="color:black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Baudrillard</span></span></b></span><span style="color:black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">, </span></span></b></span><span style="color:black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Seduction.</span></span></b></span></p><p style="margin-top: 0pt; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; text-align: left; direction: ltr; unicode-bidi: embed; word-break: normal; "><span style="color:black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></b></span></p></div></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM1GplsFPjxbmXSJkHpGku5ITErTxO3_IylIL-iH6dwUfislJxRFuk4yyuVr_MeEXoPPX9BtvSCpRExrJtKzp6MG77rTCMDypputaIe_-gTLUncuCk9GaQmXvwIZnepGNp5KCx3vsaF2Y/s1600/louisvuittoncampaign.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 315px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM1GplsFPjxbmXSJkHpGku5ITErTxO3_IylIL-iH6dwUfislJxRFuk4yyuVr_MeEXoPPX9BtvSCpRExrJtKzp6MG77rTCMDypputaIe_-gTLUncuCk9GaQmXvwIZnepGNp5KCx3vsaF2Y/s400/louisvuittoncampaign.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586659029284505202" /></a><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Spring 2011</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></u></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM1GplsFPjxbmXSJkHpGku5ITErTxO3_IylIL-iH6dwUfislJxRFuk4yyuVr_MeEXoPPX9BtvSCpRExrJtKzp6MG77rTCMDypputaIe_-gTLUncuCk9GaQmXvwIZnepGNp5KCx3vsaF2Y/s1600/louisvuittoncampaign.jpg"></a></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><p style="margin-top:0pt;margin-bottom:0pt;margin-left:0in;text-align:left; direction:ltr;unicode-bidi:embed;mso-line-break-override:none;word-break:normal; punctuation-wrap:hanging"><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The general consensus is that fashion, and its imagery focus on the superficial. Because fashion is presentation there is a legitimate interest in the surface, such as the surface treatments of fabrics by </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Proenza Schouler</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">. But the question is how the surface appearances in fashion can be sites for the mediation of values and power. </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Fashion discourse and theory must triumph over this emphasis and dig into the deeper values expressed by the surface.</span></span></p> <!--EndFragment--> </div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0NA7qNwLtUwzA7p0wO3XH244OPU4WIwQA78ajq9dw7nPGm5LeYqdmjqcAAhjqIY-3hA_Kze3cW0u3zHL9LdrSmKIWYTTQaLLRE9_9wWZGJz-YrnQgy9eaHI7MIpcxy2f94BMPrT1GIk/s1600/1.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 333px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0NA7qNwLtUwzA7p0wO3XH244OPU4WIwQA78ajq9dw7nPGm5LeYqdmjqcAAhjqIY-3hA_Kze3cW0u3zHL9LdrSmKIWYTTQaLLRE9_9wWZGJz-YrnQgy9eaHI7MIpcxy2f94BMPrT1GIk/s400/1.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586362857934894402" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The classic debate surrounding fashion imagery concerns the ways in which it is</span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> overpowering vs. empowering.</span></span></b></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8wUiyBAL2Q8xbVzD_Sv-ef61M4pLyaaHZTotHlUCkZmv7hm_Y_4yN0QWY-51CSGFKHA_1thatiUrfJsn7itlp_2-AWoLSd3OQiTp4qXc65RQcit2z8Y2iwhmHAIcFKbriEqSymwq7y1s/s1600/1.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8wUiyBAL2Q8xbVzD_Sv-ef61M4pLyaaHZTotHlUCkZmv7hm_Y_4yN0QWY-51CSGFKHA_1thatiUrfJsn7itlp_2-AWoLSd3OQiTp4qXc65RQcit2z8Y2iwhmHAIcFKbriEqSymwq7y1s/s400/1.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586666554736013122" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 154px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above the most common positions against fashion imagery and below the common positions in support of fashion imagery . The contrived dialectic is in reality a combination of both.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglStehDyI0nujAgKDacUmSv4hFL3vn5Mas9U0j5tjqvzkNKu3LSUtiwhfL35wJ9gae6pRDVXOmHJL1fpMEJ0JHLIqBaBJkSdxvFlPjdwoCU8Z5ku2BcQyBs-dW-v-2nkIlgCywyv5BVXA/s1600/2.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglStehDyI0nujAgKDacUmSv4hFL3vn5Mas9U0j5tjqvzkNKu3LSUtiwhfL35wJ9gae6pRDVXOmHJL1fpMEJ0JHLIqBaBJkSdxvFlPjdwoCU8Z5ku2BcQyBs-dW-v-2nkIlgCywyv5BVXA/s400/2.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586666545485641426" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 153px; " /></a></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></div><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Perhaps the most common concern about the appearances in fashion is </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">mis-representation of reality</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">. Through styling, make-up and Photoshop, the woman below looks different than her reality. See the original photo and more </span></span><a href="http://www.msethjones.com/rollovers/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">here</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">.<br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAzJ8iZ0D_LixBtQgGJt2jf7T6pRvV-RkKxsylIPak-MegNTdKHANCwzAq7-GR58Jekb3oJLAiaV45rAdM9L9tQP6szHuwiuSVDAVigk6lKGEDmnMImMHpURw2j_72yj4ixwrPdVGhD1I/s1600/3.png"></a></span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKj_SAnC75txq8hEYrMqTUTdR0IkQ68J4vq_dMqBGlqk_Kqyr1lb06U38DpKfKLECD_EKXASK3vNtddnEHVZaqso3rhwnv0zA7932XVyKFD6hsiwiIvzreigroh-Pk3B8B7bHqP0ridlQ/s320/2.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586368085582499138" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 314px; height: 320px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Artists can help raise awareness of the power of appearances. Below a photo series by fashion photographers </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Inez & Vinoodh</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> shows the model before and after styling.</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibLFHhBEVfSN08CBArgAazq2-Q3HihAYQVQdPSZ-oF8R1DYzCMvF89BFTbMkTQqSDP04Wdd1uudzcxSReBkPvtUEER_qagYPVy3k6w3yIRDlM_B9KLG4HwRWJnjwAd89Uz07wxZyueYao/s1600/19.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibLFHhBEVfSN08CBArgAazq2-Q3HihAYQVQdPSZ-oF8R1DYzCMvF89BFTbMkTQqSDP04Wdd1uudzcxSReBkPvtUEER_qagYPVy3k6w3yIRDlM_B9KLG4HwRWJnjwAd89Uz07wxZyueYao/s400/19.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586358784126009298" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 265px; " /></a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Artists also raise our awareness by altering the images as in the case of the </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Comme des Garcons </span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">ad and </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">M/M Paris</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> below.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5uOoPywLxcNUYIBPVQqiiadA1LNe6Ypd3DoOSw0a7AMmFWEptNQfJmThMMQXY5Y7ABxjW_EH6QpAXB-vOR7SBZ-P1RFQadlcrzHkwiVK_5zjhuUeEgwe2_mC4RwmZkHtO4rndvhvaZuQ/s1600/1..png"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAzJ8iZ0D_LixBtQgGJt2jf7T6pRvV-RkKxsylIPak-MegNTdKHANCwzAq7-GR58Jekb3oJLAiaV45rAdM9L9tQP6szHuwiuSVDAVigk6lKGEDmnMImMHpURw2j_72yj4ixwrPdVGhD1I/s400/3.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586362838621677778" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><a href="http://www.ihurtiaminfashion.com/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></a></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.ihurtiaminfashion.com/"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">I Hurt I Am in Fashion</span></span></b></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> is a blog that combines fashion images with critical commentary to suggest the power of appearances and the power system behind the images.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "></span></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAzm-yc_zETRK_Cn0Ow0Rq6gsIyDpxOis2GSBMlzpA2PBq5oTdMvx9YwAhIp_REvtoyW5VG9hpiEr_JXyLOOp9jn45lUpZy2GLHOP-yyIPRCSdX46UUeQjWdzOSwUbJCB69dso1mIU2lU/s1600/4.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 206px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAzm-yc_zETRK_Cn0Ow0Rq6gsIyDpxOis2GSBMlzpA2PBq5oTdMvx9YwAhIp_REvtoyW5VG9hpiEr_JXyLOOp9jn45lUpZy2GLHOP-yyIPRCSdX46UUeQjWdzOSwUbJCB69dso1mIU2lU/s400/4.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586361996196747282" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Understanding the power of appearances in fashion </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">begins with the brand</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> which existed before the fashion photograph. The trademark is a visual claim on property and territory that asserts the power and status of the manufacturer.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeTGu5g_KIoQw6HSlPNfn6d1VpxvsXCN3zvPWUr7Ov5FT6H4ZAlRobFa__6wb-PLsRwfLziYpRL0Lplk4IdkdUGJqXkDwDXrQz24VfcuaiCM1OHHv6xA97XVBxmE0jl3lWiW2vPi6rIQw/s1600/5.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 254px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeTGu5g_KIoQw6HSlPNfn6d1VpxvsXCN3zvPWUr7Ov5FT6H4ZAlRobFa__6wb-PLsRwfLziYpRL0Lplk4IdkdUGJqXkDwDXrQz24VfcuaiCM1OHHv6xA97XVBxmE0jl3lWiW2vPi6rIQw/s400/5.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586361991454548306" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">In the same manner as the photographers were raising the awareness of the power of appearances, </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Martin Margiela</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> below raises the awareness of the fashion label using an innovative system.<br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMOazlLg_WJgQsbAjSSN9tcL2uyfOFj1ZK0vtOfBz_AYFr19ewhrrhMRC7P8iy5KU6a20LIhdSj7_cnmgbR2uEYW2NA9FWN2lbox1Ox8884BwlSk9bZyjqIOt_2dOciFaUasrvMJkG1O8/s1600/7.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 353px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMOazlLg_WJgQsbAjSSN9tcL2uyfOFj1ZK0vtOfBz_AYFr19ewhrrhMRC7P8iy5KU6a20LIhdSj7_cnmgbR2uEYW2NA9FWN2lbox1Ox8884BwlSk9bZyjqIOt_2dOciFaUasrvMJkG1O8/s400/7.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586361120881994226" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Some brands have been so consistent they have iconic power and worth, termed </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">brand equity</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">. The YSL logo below is a good example of a power brand with global recognition.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKcNBUPIRkjImD82KPVdZCv0TvN5rIRlQOwBc9PEbTZYM-XIKcdwI0YD1pZ-NHayH3S6la-1SrDMKqCIt0tcWWHtR0Bwr5lDKqL01Zv8JYlWh0C7PY3wmF-D2mUdnl3nY8626wjulFUbs/s1600/8.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 301px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKcNBUPIRkjImD82KPVdZCv0TvN5rIRlQOwBc9PEbTZYM-XIKcdwI0YD1pZ-NHayH3S6la-1SrDMKqCIt0tcWWHtR0Bwr5lDKqL01Zv8JYlWh0C7PY3wmF-D2mUdnl3nY8626wjulFUbs/s400/8.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586361116793951858" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">In the power of appearances there are some brands that make claims on colors and forms, overdetermining the freedom of the element with a fashion association.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4WlUN0znizUXYqxTLwmFJnPEd64dYR5rIkFII2LUBO7MkhPtQQczIZ_2V6QKN7vEcttzPj2lVM2O1exORMjDFnPEPClvG_8hevSmpfxecvoGQMPcaah90gjVpCdTMatO_calCdLGaU4o/s1600/9.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4WlUN0znizUXYqxTLwmFJnPEd64dYR5rIkFII2LUBO7MkhPtQQczIZ_2V6QKN7vEcttzPj2lVM2O1exORMjDFnPEPClvG_8hevSmpfxecvoGQMPcaah90gjVpCdTMatO_calCdLGaU4o/s400/9.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586361111178029810" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The power brands below aim to be so consistent in presentation and associations that they create a reality in themselves, so much so that the appearance of the names alone signifies invented meanings, disconnected from legitimate power. This is the essence of </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">status</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">. Ralph Lauren for example may evoke equestrian and New England culture but could be worn by someone disconnected from this genre with no social power of this type.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDW5bh0gf8L-fadPABQx1Fs42WzCuRRBT9iZyVDKfk4B_LE-dUyqNhmSxKrboFc0UAPjoqRk_-Eaz25IDi9Y3lRUCA-WTohgmtkQxPAwaX93JS-c8khV8Ryy62kZj94dR9O40D7iA2ffc/s1600/10.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 210px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDW5bh0gf8L-fadPABQx1Fs42WzCuRRBT9iZyVDKfk4B_LE-dUyqNhmSxKrboFc0UAPjoqRk_-Eaz25IDi9Y3lRUCA-WTohgmtkQxPAwaX93JS-c8khV8Ryy62kZj94dR9O40D7iA2ffc/s400/10.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586361111300981986" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMrb8KX_a6_UzdvnS9QtGXQqjRGKGpJPz_rWxGQod_JzptMyC5mV6ayntglLn36R1VAA_ZyHB-IfIhEcBmt8i6044WGy_k0vl66dqJj3prEa9j8bpmh3pVqtAepTylJFZsa0MHKNGYkGA/s1600/categories.png"></a></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMrb8KX_a6_UzdvnS9QtGXQqjRGKGpJPz_rWxGQod_JzptMyC5mV6ayntglLn36R1VAA_ZyHB-IfIhEcBmt8i6044WGy_k0vl66dqJj3prEa9j8bpmh3pVqtAepTylJFZsa0MHKNGYkGA/s1600/categories.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMrb8KX_a6_UzdvnS9QtGXQqjRGKGpJPz_rWxGQod_JzptMyC5mV6ayntglLn36R1VAA_ZyHB-IfIhEcBmt8i6044WGy_k0vl66dqJj3prEa9j8bpmh3pVqtAepTylJFZsa0MHKNGYkGA/s400/categories.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586367117393356658" style="text-align: left;display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 182px; " /></a></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Fashion photography </span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">can be used to further brand power, as in the campaigns above, or general associations in fashion as in the editorials below. There are 3 formal categories for fashion photography as seen above - fashion, accessories and beauty/fragrance, all of which may be either campaigns or editorials. </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Roland Barthes </span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">believed there were 3 ideological categories to fashion photographs as seen below - direct representation, poetic scenery, absurd juxtapositions.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDH29ILXqZRdRhBxEEKRXeeRgjv0q01JAQRBUxWhXAIfqObqVpgJg0O0_cg4iRCC4kYbl-5XZtbnL4jUyYL-fXtUxTFfujZ5QenOIIi6FiCeSJXr7ZLWw9fihd40yhK0hUikk_Nkpc_H8/s1600/catergories+2.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDH29ILXqZRdRhBxEEKRXeeRgjv0q01JAQRBUxWhXAIfqObqVpgJg0O0_cg4iRCC4kYbl-5XZtbnL4jUyYL-fXtUxTFfujZ5QenOIIi6FiCeSJXr7ZLWw9fihd40yhK0hUikk_Nkpc_H8/s400/catergories+2.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586367111654701138" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 187px; " /></a></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></u></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDH29ILXqZRdRhBxEEKRXeeRgjv0q01JAQRBUxWhXAIfqObqVpgJg0O0_cg4iRCC4kYbl-5XZtbnL4jUyYL-fXtUxTFfujZ5QenOIIi6FiCeSJXr7ZLWw9fihd40yhK0hUikk_Nkpc_H8/s1600/catergories+2.png"></a></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqycBlfK8kM8O7iKGXiMjf59fIagtxIhCTdk5t3dwoB-QuhtSIIURXtxP8SX5TNHAP69bv44yBlhq2dH13gpk7j3IzU3ad_saoZ84jPZdY59sths0AGcnoqrNNpL5ySuK9iAXtOS5hiQE/s1600/11.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 205px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqycBlfK8kM8O7iKGXiMjf59fIagtxIhCTdk5t3dwoB-QuhtSIIURXtxP8SX5TNHAP69bv44yBlhq2dH13gpk7j3IzU3ad_saoZ84jPZdY59sths0AGcnoqrNNpL5ySuK9iAXtOS5hiQE/s400/11.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586361108267425618" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">For the complete history of fashion photography click </span></span><a href="http://fashionversusart.blogspot.com/2009/11/early-fashion-photography-to-1970s.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">here</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">. Above the first fashion series of the closet of </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 15px; "><em style="font-style: normal; "><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Countess</span></span></b></em><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> di </span></span></b><em style="font-style: normal; "><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Castiglione</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">. Below </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Steichen</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> for Vogue, 1928.</span></span></em></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV0qAeivq7xA1bMX8nkzB3mXsv44i64d9qNe5KVmG-Psmi7qG8rwTIUBBhzuTRJeoSHZh1ADXGxWXYGgje36VpY53poK-wEb4RuMiLxo0dkH2lc_uce7roHPXnWLWV2k1ZwUDP0mC2lT4/s1600/12.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 279px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV0qAeivq7xA1bMX8nkzB3mXsv44i64d9qNe5KVmG-Psmi7qG8rwTIUBBhzuTRJeoSHZh1ADXGxWXYGgje36VpY53poK-wEb4RuMiLxo0dkH2lc_uce7roHPXnWLWV2k1ZwUDP0mC2lT4/s400/12.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586360673737803906" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6PngGhzpzQeOHSDhOWloytbOpq8CWrnS1vHCNWiibWHHTi_WqXnSvB46_DQEQxCYByuoZGpT2mS2etHscTrpt8JoGRaiIpkCSGHG8d4XSIeyt5npA8b46KSImzHiqFdzoquQg68kuIAg/s1600/13.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 344px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6PngGhzpzQeOHSDhOWloytbOpq8CWrnS1vHCNWiibWHHTi_WqXnSvB46_DQEQxCYByuoZGpT2mS2etHscTrpt8JoGRaiIpkCSGHG8d4XSIeyt5npA8b46KSImzHiqFdzoquQg68kuIAg/s400/13.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586360666180383138" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Cecil Beaton </span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">for Vogue represents the formal presentation os fashion photography in the 1940's. Below after the war, European artists brought new sensibility to the fashion magazine and encouraged photographers in new directions. Below left American </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">John Rawlings</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">, 1957 and right </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Avedon</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">, 1964.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRvv4L2sjVv1XGF2UeM2lNEORV7pwwYKL82EufGqYS9Css9LOMhbO_DfWQDqNq517SnTcbWbiG_IvVl-fbZg-4MfqVSKjmrpveykwE5N-D1efMLazbMUC68nAk0fNJHNZFC37IZn0TS3Q/s1600/14.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 216px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRvv4L2sjVv1XGF2UeM2lNEORV7pwwYKL82EufGqYS9Css9LOMhbO_DfWQDqNq517SnTcbWbiG_IvVl-fbZg-4MfqVSKjmrpveykwE5N-D1efMLazbMUC68nAk0fNJHNZFC37IZn0TS3Q/s400/14.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586360661173045554" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtRavhc_KFuaegc_xEX5yaIIXb-18lqmlb16fTzlJl_bLXBEdOqJi2tP5DQWmqWBmtxko5zeVAw9PfAzpqfd2YtTLJiluNcRq10XDA-Obkz1PeCIQ776P7n62RYBkxBcp_AiOaes8SZt0/s1600/15.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 272px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtRavhc_KFuaegc_xEX5yaIIXb-18lqmlb16fTzlJl_bLXBEdOqJi2tP5DQWmqWBmtxko5zeVAw9PfAzpqfd2YtTLJiluNcRq10XDA-Obkz1PeCIQ776P7n62RYBkxBcp_AiOaes8SZt0/s400/15.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586360647646634018" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Guy Bourdin</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> in the late 70's brought a new sexuality and naturalism. Below in the 80's and 90's supermodels and glamour photographers Ritts and Testino dominated the industry and editorials, leading to </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Steven Meisel</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">'s critique below right, "Supermodels Enter Rehab" in 2007.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglgK7F2pScXYsLf-ACCxk5oB0O7v3MnHZXJCX6WQgw2Jr4EqbU9EN_1B2WaWEYnVPBXbN3SH7aSRdZVvmcEuftDLLZ1bJAyfKCA02DUKtZhTNrN-sJ0NXkIxrQWKEP-_KO7g8eopxNthI/s1600/16.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 177px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglgK7F2pScXYsLf-ACCxk5oB0O7v3MnHZXJCX6WQgw2Jr4EqbU9EN_1B2WaWEYnVPBXbN3SH7aSRdZVvmcEuftDLLZ1bJAyfKCA02DUKtZhTNrN-sJ0NXkIxrQWKEP-_KO7g8eopxNthI/s400/16.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586360642942388146" /></a><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5uOoPywLxcNUYIBPVQqiiadA1LNe6Ypd3DoOSw0a7AMmFWEptNQfJmThMMQXY5Y7ABxjW_EH6QpAXB-vOR7SBZ-P1RFQadlcrzHkwiVK_5zjhuUeEgwe2_mC4RwmZkHtO4rndvhvaZuQ/s400/1..png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586362011668076610" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 268px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above and below are two different critiques of the power of appearances. Meisel uses the fashion editorial to express social issues in "State of Emergency," 2005. Below </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Juergen Teller</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> breaks down conventions of glamour in fashion photographer by showing the designers themselves in ordinary settings in the ads.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk4NyR5J4dbeUZUFa6ve4t0TTEqpL4pp1AF89N11b76yupzQ-GSVjzqNZXbnjqbUCCafxHpYmLuG1s7nIZbq05eu7C0PPuSxcODGeMYYExMDqQF_eG8owdZWZQxu6Ixfug7U_gZMWMgzA/s1600/18.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 293px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk4NyR5J4dbeUZUFa6ve4t0TTEqpL4pp1AF89N11b76yupzQ-GSVjzqNZXbnjqbUCCafxHpYmLuG1s7nIZbq05eu7C0PPuSxcODGeMYYExMDqQF_eG8owdZWZQxu6Ixfug7U_gZMWMgzA/s400/18.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586358795408138658" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzteYYTg5u3ILa5g87EfJZRmvB4trpDWNwyZUo9UWFEVk9YVRyJxMuvM6-TZtNU5RYE0Nz-8Kn_9wE9dApyt9jvNmZNtCzfar56rgc12FHlozu7jPP0pVGj4Uqa22guOGthdnpiiIJk24/s1600/21.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 285px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzteYYTg5u3ILa5g87EfJZRmvB4trpDWNwyZUo9UWFEVk9YVRyJxMuvM6-TZtNU5RYE0Nz-8Kn_9wE9dApyt9jvNmZNtCzfar56rgc12FHlozu7jPP0pVGj4Uqa22guOGthdnpiiIJk24/s400/21.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586358769863228722" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above the proposal by </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Olivier Zahm</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> that the commodity exchange of fashion is combined with the mystical impossible exchange (the singularity of the consumer, specific values and dreams) to make a successful fashion photograph. Below the proposition of </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Brian Morean</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> that corporations uses the familiar and powerful appearances of celebrities to reach the consumer.</span></span></div><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaryUK2MbpqFmA6D2KX209a_mOSS1KqWZFqPEzPu7xE2kRx818RQ2VqgRliDDoPBdcW7d0E7Lht6g805dpqOuRzMmvIX9L36AAAF-hUTjMSi1eyv6bblkuWByk1674RbP_GDJzlzEbJQU/s1600/22.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 160px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaryUK2MbpqFmA6D2KX209a_mOSS1KqWZFqPEzPu7xE2kRx818RQ2VqgRliDDoPBdcW7d0E7Lht6g805dpqOuRzMmvIX9L36AAAF-hUTjMSi1eyv6bblkuWByk1674RbP_GDJzlzEbJQU/s400/22.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586358047361339666" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Morean proposes that celebrities have economic power and worth. Their faces and names bring added value to product presentations. The combinations of celebrity and fashion are not always successful as it is </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">co-branding </span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">and there are many variables.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJGVSw2OYf8haS4LDTg9SptN6UXi1wFEhQR3LohigA1hwPWoX-N39mb-hPkkvaOTnN9eiEUpkPVyTCHwzkll8azIU7v4XRfzd97_d6AkXb6JLPqD91VCLW_zkfHpX5UgXr2ypZ5LRf7YY/s1600/23.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 280px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJGVSw2OYf8haS4LDTg9SptN6UXi1wFEhQR3LohigA1hwPWoX-N39mb-hPkkvaOTnN9eiEUpkPVyTCHwzkll8azIU7v4XRfzd97_d6AkXb6JLPqD91VCLW_zkfHpX5UgXr2ypZ5LRf7YY/s400/23.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586358035852398210" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikLF2yL_U9W8EDTYnE1vh6cAycgFUhx5kBe3VjA0GqvKbSaXCr_B5a16Od03j5JQIxkpLcQtueqxebSuFQMQLbFsT9K7BtDeY0XuHnJY0TIiZwfsyTIAq-exc815ZSeOQ0OOgr3YX76L8/s1600/24.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 369px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikLF2yL_U9W8EDTYnE1vh6cAycgFUhx5kBe3VjA0GqvKbSaXCr_B5a16Od03j5JQIxkpLcQtueqxebSuFQMQLbFsT9K7BtDeY0XuHnJY0TIiZwfsyTIAq-exc815ZSeOQ0OOgr3YX76L8/s400/24.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586358031890603122" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Finally, a participant in the power of appearances is the model who takes on different aesthetic expressions for different value assertions. The pressure toward "perfection" is a highly debated, often willing, oppression of the fashion system. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9AU6OvMuTPRrZkYjdlO9cJ3HxWkpg6lyCkcQBuhHjWR54Oxe6uxRW5FqRyqBWTvEjCexabvv7iikrmBGF22oF9YIWvXfcnqXJXmGljDiIThy6WPV-Iiwp_1pbGAQczBquyP9dX4H8AWs/s1600/25.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 291px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9AU6OvMuTPRrZkYjdlO9cJ3HxWkpg6lyCkcQBuhHjWR54Oxe6uxRW5FqRyqBWTvEjCexabvv7iikrmBGF22oF9YIWvXfcnqXJXmGljDiIThy6WPV-Iiwp_1pbGAQczBquyP9dX4H8AWs/s400/25.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586358025811470402" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL4IaUpx9WFOXvficrXhqKPPal9LPZCsgYid1ETFHweJaLM5kgPZExnXHrt0Ty4u5LjsWdIiymW7cx1-ECZfqeieZHberCyhPLVuHw4_3DMDJIsDp4hFE2aI6TN729ofzr9xD6BxXB_nE/s1600/26.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 274px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL4IaUpx9WFOXvficrXhqKPPal9LPZCsgYid1ETFHweJaLM5kgPZExnXHrt0Ty4u5LjsWdIiymW7cx1-ECZfqeieZHberCyhPLVuHw4_3DMDJIsDp4hFE2aI6TN729ofzr9xD6BxXB_nE/s400/26.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586358021362944674" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Some models take their position with empowerment, managing their bodies and careers like a business. Above Caroline Trentini and below the most successful examples, the 90's </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Supermodels</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJy-Wfki_2G29pry2rvrPn78TLzigAFhI6f4Yidxlwui2veO1uScmRN7YD0a2PylQovwiv6JXD0Ol5GDFkJc5ZfCUuAM3mAFgrxUj5HyWonarTVe5VhnDY_6SW27_XTAuIBcE46-QYL3I/s400/6.Naomi%252CLinda%252CTatjana%252CChristy%252CCindy-by-Lindbergh%252C1990.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586655979712810226" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 319px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 19px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford by Peter Lindbergh for British Vogue January 1990</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 19px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 19px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">See fashion photography since the 1980's </span></span><a href="http://fashionversusart.blogspot.com/2009/11/fashion-photography.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">here</span></span></a></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 19px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">See the history of the fashion model </span></span><a href="http://fashionversusart.blogspot.com/2010/11/history-of-fashion-model.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">here</span></span></a></span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 19px; font-family:georgia;font-size:small;"><br /></span></div>Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7667735046959890171.post-79240422786713932632011-03-22T01:52:00.000-07:002011-04-10T10:02:05.915-07:00Fashion and GraphicsBy: Isabella Aballi<br /><br />Tamsin Blanchard examines the power behind the label and how the emerging role of graphic designers has become key for a fashion labels success and credibility. Blanchard explains how the label has become its own form of currency because of the social and economic importance is holds. Nowadays, fashion brands have come to rely on packaging and presentation to determine its worth as oppose to the actual product. In the last 20 years, the graphic designers that are in charge of creating the labels and the presentation have created the ability to attach status and power to labels and fashion industries. Fashion is no longer just clothes; now the fashion industry has many sectors that contribute to the popularization of the label. These graphic designers create fashion show invitations, ad campaigns, �look books, catalogues, press mail-outs, magazines, etc��all of these elements contribute to the message attached to the label.<br /><br />Peter Saville is known for being the pioneer of fashion graphics. He collaborated with photographers like Nick Knight and produced work for designers like Yohji Yamamoto. Yohjis catalogue in 1986 was a groundbreaking innovation for the fashion world and kicked off the field of fashion graphics. In fashion graphics it�s a matter of presentation as oppose to the fashion itself. For example, some people like certain brands because of the message that is communicated through the presentation of the clothing.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaMm0RbRu59hZ3UXO12t-HBVz1ZWXf8anGQsR977aAz1JoibI16ApEcVz4KzRu5cTUqoRYaYfNwfwhYtnynjzkA3mvgS_N9Ss5a3LJ3WtoMZybW0-lnRRdLp9Hs0ds2qlnZTj9Zj9j2vY/s1600/Gucci-Spring-2011-Campaign-4.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 148px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaMm0RbRu59hZ3UXO12t-HBVz1ZWXf8anGQsR977aAz1JoibI16ApEcVz4KzRu5cTUqoRYaYfNwfwhYtnynjzkA3mvgS_N9Ss5a3LJ3WtoMZybW0-lnRRdLp9Hs0ds2qlnZTj9Zj9j2vY/s200/Gucci-Spring-2011-Campaign-4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586826495557601202" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMdDAVqUjTPL9_LbSNCJsfY-NA-hUfutV81Ls-qqbaYiC7GcOXN0Kll9lDNv3xw1qPDIQo5qOhHq6GNBdCw684ShlfSlMKuf3YLg9sHgAdIWspvAmaknyXz0wesoRpgnw6tybVITdiIg/s1600/Missoni-Spring-2011-Ad-Campaign.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 132px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMdDAVqUjTPL9_LbSNCJsfY-NA-hUfutV81Ls-qqbaYiC7GcOXN0Kll9lDNv3xw1qPDIQo5qOhHq6GNBdCw684ShlfSlMKuf3YLg9sHgAdIWspvAmaknyXz0wesoRpgnw6tybVITdiIg/s200/Missoni-Spring-2011-Ad-Campaign.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586826495084606274" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcU7aHEREBlNjpRqF9w-h6TmrhdxhbFr_L2Jv1x5o1iS3fHguvJwWygnbASNW8OKc_penuWPJbDn4OkrOjYNUPNpcaPgXL-o9t6NCoaL6A2pjPUC49c5kH5BWMMuluf6YP1ZitE-A2iEk/s1600/6a00e54ef9645388340148c77c54c5970c-500wi.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 140px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcU7aHEREBlNjpRqF9w-h6TmrhdxhbFr_L2Jv1x5o1iS3fHguvJwWygnbASNW8OKc_penuWPJbDn4OkrOjYNUPNpcaPgXL-o9t6NCoaL6A2pjPUC49c5kH5BWMMuluf6YP1ZitE-A2iEk/s200/6a00e54ef9645388340148c77c54c5970c-500wi.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586826488052977010" /></a><br />Many designers have reestablished themselves simply by changing their ads and presentation of fashion (Stella McCartney, Burberry, etc). �A brand�s graphic identity is how it expresses itself, shows what it wants to belong to and talks to its customer with its chosen visual language. The graphic identity will be applied to everything that the brand uses so it is vital to find an expression that suits its values.�<br />Once a designer creates te=he product and determines a message they want to send, every form of that brands representation is formed around that identity: the logo, the lookbook, the colors, the models, everything.<br /><br />YSL is seen to be the label to prove the power of the graphics the most through its elegant letters Y � S � L which are known worldwide regardless of whethere you own a piece of haute couture or not.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC_qRL0wSc6R6UwtG9o8ojAmqREaf-fQ44Fl2hUIeu7ovtG6qH9loyMx-NqGbLYOi8bxoHwsDNqXGhLv10xzWPMdjWYEZECoaYhCeeyX40xmn_3m_8cYTWYE1k0jAna7nJFudhgJn_fxM/s1600/SNagtfoEvlfENFg.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 186px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC_qRL0wSc6R6UwtG9o8ojAmqREaf-fQ44Fl2hUIeu7ovtG6qH9loyMx-NqGbLYOi8bxoHwsDNqXGhLv10xzWPMdjWYEZECoaYhCeeyX40xmn_3m_8cYTWYE1k0jAna7nJFudhgJn_fxM/s200/SNagtfoEvlfENFg.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586826776209241010" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-weight:bold;"><div style="text-align: center;">VS.</div></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPB_Gf5FqWFemIXG9qkFtZXAhTr9O0h73YvGfyjHtT2LSPdvJBHtk68IqTBbtSbS0yDQNcYsjNV8JgX2zi6lEGB88PS8lLmiEm5kj-X3Jqg26lew9lEBIfi1J2dbje38fajjXBEmNFRe0/s1600/t-shirt-port_and_co_6point1_oz_white.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 192px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPB_Gf5FqWFemIXG9qkFtZXAhTr9O0h73YvGfyjHtT2LSPdvJBHtk68IqTBbtSbS0yDQNcYsjNV8JgX2zi6lEGB88PS8lLmiEm5kj-X3Jqg26lew9lEBIfi1J2dbje38fajjXBEmNFRe0/s200/t-shirt-port_and_co_6point1_oz_white.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586826776170059874" /></a><br /><br />The first graphic designers are said to have worked in the music industry before the fashion industry.<br /><br />�Fashion houses no matter how mainstream need ti keep a step ahead if they want to maintain their credibility��essentially they have to be innovative but keep their elegance.<br /><br />�At best, graphic designers have brought to the fashion industry another set of eyes, a fresh perspective and an uncompromising vision. At worst, they are simply another marketing tool.�<br /><br />�If it looks good, don�t trust it.�<br /><br />�Presentation is in danger of becoming everything.�Internet at Every Wherehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13430497579682715412noreply@blogger.com0